How to Give the Medication in the Ears

It is important to get the medication into the horizontal part of
the ear canal. Unlike our ear canal, the dog's external ear canal
is "L" shaped. The vertical canal connects with the outside of the
ear and is the upper part of the "L". The horizontal canal lies
deeper in the canal and terminates at the eardrum. Our goal is to
administer the medication into the lower part of the "L" - the
horizontal ear canal.

The ear canal may be medicated by following these steps:

1. Pull the earflap straight up and hold it with one hand.

2. Place a small amount of medication into the vertical part of the
ear canal while continuing to keep the earflap elevated.

3. Put one finger in front of and at the base of the earflap, and
put your thumb behind and at the base.

4. Massage the ear canal between your finger and thumb. A squishing
sound tells you that the medication has gone into the ear canal.

5. Clean the outer part of the ear canal and the inside of the
earflap with a cotton ball soaked in some of the medication.

(photo courtesy of http://www.knowledgerush.com/kr/encyclopedia/Dog, content courtesy of Dr. Andrew Jones)

How Well Is Your Dog Groomed?

The reason one should groom his/her Dog is simple - your dog's physical state influences the way he feels and the way you look at your dog. Extreme cases, where lack of proper care, cleaning and grooming can directly affect the behavior of your Dog, are not rare.

Proper grooming not only infuses a healthy glow to your dog's appearance, but also helps develop his self-esteem; while it makes you a very proud parent, when you show off your Dog to others.

The first step involved in dog grooming is: Brushing!

Brushing has been universally acknowledged by expert dog groomers as the single most important step in grooming.

The benefits of brushing are many. To name a few:

• Better blood circulation
• Shinier and healthier coat
• Better bonding

Subscribe to this FREE dog grooming mini course and learn more about brushing and combing and other grooming tools and their applications.

Even if you know how crucial brushing is for your Dog's health and well-being, we all know that there is a right way and a wrong way of doing anything. And without doubt, you would like to do everything the RIGHT way when it comes to your Dog.

Yes, there's a method to follow while brushing your Dog.

Here are FIVE steps to successfully brushing your Dog that will prove to be extremely useful:

• Brush against the growth of the hair first with a slicker brush and then with a medium or wide-toothed comb.
  
• The slicker brush removes all the loose hair and the comb takes care of the tangles.
  
• Brush your Dog along the hair growth and make sure you reach the skin as you brush his way.
  
• Then use a flea comb over the coat to get the fleas and remove any remaining tangles. Part the coat and start from the root and then comb through.
  
• If your Dog's paw pads are hairy, then clip them using electric clippers. Do not clip the hair in between the pads. Clip only the excess hair.

Brush your Dog's hairs to prevent it from matting. Matting can be a very painful experience.

Regular brushing untangles the matted hairs on your Dog's coat. Since this is a risky job to do, the best way out is to prevent them from forming in the first place. And doing this is simple: just brush and comb your Dog regularly. If and when you see any mats or tangles, use a detangle solution and a medium-toothed comb.

Don't wait until your Dog is dirty or matted to introduce him to grooming. That would make him associate the experience with unpleasantness. Moreover, many dogs learn to see their routine brushing as an alternate form of petting, i.e. another source of affection and attention.

Subscribe to this FREE dog grooming mini course and start Grooming your Dog all by yourself right from the comfort of your home Today.

(photo courtesy of http://www.dogfacts.org/dog-grooming-bathing.jpg)

Pet dog recovers from H1N1

CBC News

A dog in New York has been confirmed to have the pandemic
strain of H1N1.

The pet, a 13-year-old mixed breed, seemed to have caught
the virus from his owner, Michael San Filippo, a spokesman
for the American Veterinary Medical Association, said Tuesday.

It is the first reported case of H1N1 in a dog, but other
pets, including cats and ferrets, have caught the strain
from humans, veterinarians say.

In theory, the strain could be transmitted from a pet to a
human, "but so far it's really looking like a dead end in
pets," San Filippo said.

The dog came in for a checkup Tuesday and is "getting back
to his old self" but has not fully recovered, said veterinarian
Julie Steffens.

It is rare for pets to spread flu viruses, and people should
not be afraid to enjoy the animals, said Dr. Anne Schuchat of
the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

So far, 111 million doses of H1N1 vaccine have been made
available in the U.S., she noted.

"Surveys are showing that initial doses of vaccine were
relatively quickly taken up and they were going to the people
they were targeted for," Schuchat told reporters in a telephone
briefing.

The agency estimates that nearly 50 million Americans have been
infected with swine flu and 10,000 have been killed by it.
Seasonal flu results in about 36,000 deaths a year in the U.S.
and 4,000 to 8,000 a year in Canada. The death toll from swine
flu in Canada as of Dec. 12 was 367.

The World Health Organization cautioned Tuesday against making
comparisons between confirmed H1N1 deaths and seasonal flu deaths.
The comparisons can be misleading and don't accurately measure
the impact of the pandemic, given that H1N1 affects a much younger
age group, WHO said in a briefing note.

It likely won't be possible to accurately assess the disease and
death rates until a year or two after the H1N1 pandemic has peaked,
using methods such as those used to estimate deaths during seasonal
flu epidemics, the agency said.

Take a Peek at Your Pet’s Eyes

Eyecare for your dog
by Dr. Ernie Ward

Eye injuries are one of the most serious conditions seen by veterinarians. Because pets often mask the clinical signs associated with an injured eye and don't complain as we do, many pet owners fail to recognize a problem, ignore it, or worse, try to treat it on their own. To help you get a clearer view of your pet's eyes, let's look at some of the most common eye problems in pets, how to tell if your pet is affected, and what you should do.


Rule number one: do no harm
Spanky was a small-breed older dog that had been diagnosed with eye problems in the past. It was usually something minor: allergies, infection, nothing serious. So when Spanky began pawing at his eye one evening, his owner searched the medicine cabinet for the last eye medication Spanky had been prescribed.


Two days later, Spanky visited our office in trouble. The vision in his eye was in real danger of being lost. Fortunately, after surgery with a veterinary ophthalmologist, Spanky retained his eyesight. What happened?

Rule number one of any suspected eye injury: never put anything into your pet's eye without consulting with your veterinarian first. Spanky almost lost his eye because his pet parent administered a medication used to treat inflammation and allergies into an eye with an ulcer. The medication worsened an already severe condition. No matter how many times your dog has experienced an eye problem or the number of pets you've owned in your lifetime, don't let your dog become a Spanky.

Corneal injuries
The cornea is the clear tissue in the front of the eye through which we see. Because it doesn't have any blood vessels (it's clear) and it is exposed to the environment most of the time, injuries are common. Many pets will have a scratch on the cornea called a corneal laceration that may become a deeper injury known as a corneal ulcer. These injuries are often caused by a wayward claw, blade of grass, or fight with another animal. They may also be caused by contact with liquids such as shampoos or flea sprays or gases such as smoke.

You can tell if your pet has a corneal injury because it will usually squint, close the eye, avoid bright light, rub at the eye with its paws or you may see a red, bloodshot, swollen or wet eye. The discharge may be clear or yellow-green in color. If you see your pet closing or squinting its eye, have it seen by your veterinarian immediately. Superficial injuries can quickly become infected and a minor injury progress to a major one in a matter of hours. Don't delay; your pet has only two eyes.

Dry Eye
"Dry eye" is another name for keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS). Dry eye is caused by decreased production of tears causing the cornea to become dry and ulcerate. It is described as quite irritating and painful in humans with the condition. The cause is thought to be an inherited immune disorder in certain families of dogs. In simple terms, the dog's immune cells attack and damage the cells that produce tears. Once the damage is severe, dry eye occurs.

To combat dry eye, an immunosuppressive drug, cyclosporine (also used to fight cancer), is most commonly used. Tacrolimus is also used in some cases. Breeds most commonly affected include: Cocker Spaniel, Boston Terrier, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Bulldog, English Springer Spaniel, Lhasa Apso, Miniature Schnauzer, Pekingese, Pug, Shih Tzu, West Highland White Terrier, and Yorkshire Terrier.

Cataracts
Cataracts are one of the most common age-related conditions diagnosed in veterinary medicine. Cataracts are also one of the most common causes of blindness in dogs and cats. You can spot cataracts by the familiar blue to gray hue in your pet's eyes. As the cataract worsens, you may be able to see a crystalline structure form just behind the pupil.

The great news is that your pet doesn't have to go blind from cataracts. The same surgery that is performed on people is performed on pets by veterinary ophthalmologists. If you don't choose to have a cataract removed, your veterinarian should monitor for the development of glaucoma (an increase in the pressure inside the eye).

Many pets with mature or hypermature cataracts (advanced stages associated with blindness or near-blindness) will develop glaucoma. The test for glaucoma is typically performed by a tonometer. This is a pen-shaped instrument that measures the pressure in the eye. The test simply requires your pet's cornea to be numbed with a topical solution and takes only a few minutes.

Diagnosing Eye Injuries
If your veterinarian suspects an eye injury, the first test performed is almost always a corneal stain. This test consists of applying a dye, typically fluorescein dye, in the eye to detect any tiny breaks in the cornea's outer layers. Your veterinarian will often examine the eye using magnification and a special blue wavelength of light. If the cornea is damaged, as in Spanky's case, your veterinarian will avoid eye medications that contain topical steroids. Without knowing if the cornea is damaged or not, your veterinarian cannot safely prescribe eye medications.

If dry eye is suspected in your pet, a tear production test will be conducted. This test involves the use of a special tear-absorbing film that is gently placed in the corner of each eye. The strips are held in the eye for one minute and the amount of moisture wicked on the test strips is measured. If your pet isn't producing enough tear film, it will be started on cyclosporine or tacrolimus and re-checked in thirty days. Once adequate tear production is achieved, the pet is monitored every three to six months. Treatment is almost always for life in patients with dry eye.

Are dogs colorblind?
One of the most common dog eye myths is "they see in black-and-white." Not true! According to the latest research, dogs are most likely red-green color blind. This means they see blues and yellows really well but greens and red may be misinterpreted as another hue. Cats are believed to see in color. They seem to prefer color combinations with more contrast. You may interpret this as a dog would enjoy a bright blue bed while a cat favors pink and green polka dots!

Your pet's eyes are a precious gift; take good care of them. While cases such as Spanky's are rare, when they occur it's a sad, avoidable tragedy. When in doubt, ask your veterinarian.

Together you can ensure your pet sees the world as it was intended--with you front and center and in full focus!

Ernest E. Ward, Jr., DVM is the owner of E3 Management, a North Carolina-based consulting firm that helps veterinarians improve client service, profitability, and standards of care. He also is owner and chief-of-staff of Seaside Animal Care, a nationally recognized award-winning small animal practice.

(photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/stiang/400132282/; content courtesy of http://dogtime.com/dog-eyecare-ernest-ward.html)

Treating Paw Pad Injuries

If you've never given your dog's paw pads much thought, you should!

Pads are the thick, spongy, rubbery part of your dog's paw. Dogs rely on their paw pads to absorb shock, make traction with the surface on which they're walking (or running, sliding, slipping, etc.), insulate their paws from extreme temperatures, and to protect them from whatever is underfoot. Watch your dog's paws when you take him out for a walk or a play session, and you’ll realize how much punishment his pads take on a daily basis.

With ground contact occurring every step of a dog's life, paw pads have evolved into a tough and resilient part of his body. But, tough as they are, paw pads are not made of armor. That’s why it's not uncommon for vets to find dogs with paw pad injuries coming into the office for emergency care.

Typical paw pad injuries
Common paw pad injuries include lacerations, punctures and abrasions. If a dog steps on glass or other sharp objects, even the toughest paw pad can get cut. Paw pads can also be injured by extreme temperatures, and it’s not unknown for dogs to experience burned paw pads on very hot days. In addition, paw pads can be hurt by chemical spills on the ground.

How to tell if your dog has a paw pad injury
If you've personally seen your dog step into a chemical or tread on glass or an extremely hot surface, you’ll probably know almost immediately if he has injured his paw pads. However, injuries may not always be witnessed firsthand, and sometimes the symptoms occur a short time after the actual injury taken place.

Symptoms of paw pad injuries include bleeding, limping, excessive licking of the pad, discoloration, and reluctance on your dog’s part to put weight on his paw.

What to do if your dog injures a paw pad
Treatment depends on the type of injury sustained. Here are a few first aid tips:

1. Cleaning the wound—First, determine if there is any debris, such as glass, in the wound. If there is, remove it. Washing the injured paw is a good idea, if clean water is available. Swishing the paw in the water could help to dislodge any small pieces of debris that might still be in the injury.

2. Stop the bleeding—Once the paw has been cleaned, apply pressure on the paw pad with a bandage or other clean and absorbent material. Try to maintain some pressure on the wound until the bleeding stops. If the cut is small, the bleeding may stop in short order. However, if the cut is very deep, you may not be able to stop the bleeding on your own—and a trip to the veterinarian’s office for expert care will be necessary.

3. Soothing burns—If you’ve ever attempted to walk barefoot on a sun-bathed sidewalk in the summer, you know how scorching it can be. Even though paw pads are tough, they can still burn. You can help soothe the burn with an icepack or the cool, gentle running water of a garden hose or faucet. If your dog steps into a harsh chemical, immediately flush the entire paw with cool water. Keep the water running until all traces of the chemical are washed away.

Next stop: the vet's office
Your dog's paws are difficult-to-heal areas of his body. That's why even less-severe injuries could require a visit to the vet's office. Many paw pad injuries require proper cleaning and bandaging—and some may need more intensive care.

Your vet will also tell you how to properly care for the treated injury at home during the time it takes the paw to heal.
An ounce of prevention

To help prevent paw pad injuries, inspect areas where your dog will be playing. Remove all sharp debris and wash away chemical spills. In the summer, try to keep your dog from walking on extremely hot surfaces—grass and earth are almost always cooler and more inviting to walk on under the summer sun. And when taking your dog out for a walk, watch the ground in front of your dog to avoid any dangerous surprises.

(content courtesy of pedigree.com)

Emergency Care for Your Dog

In the event of a canine emergency it is important to immediately perform any life saving measures that are needed to preserve the dog’s life, and then stabilize the dog as quickly as possible before heading to a veterinarian. The first few moments after an emergency has occurred are the most important, and your quick response could save a dog’s life.
Approaching an Injured Animal

Injured animals have a strong instinct to leave the area of the accident and to hide in order to protect their selves. In nature, this instinct serves to keep injured animals safe from predators that may exploit an animal’s injury for their own gain. Keeping this instinct in mind, it is important to approach an injured animal slowly while talking to the animal in a calm and non-threatening voice.
What To Do First

Once an emergency has occurred, the first thing to do is to check the dog’s ABC’s: airway, breathing, and circulation. If the dog is not breathing and the airway seems obstructed, visually check for any obstruction that could be blocking the dog’s airway and if necessary perform the canine Heimlich maneuver. If the airway is open but the dog is not breathing, canine CPR should be carried out at once.

Once the dog’s ABC’s have been checked, look for any signs of bleeding, broken bones, swelling, bruising of the skin or limbs, or any objects which have hurt the dog (gunshot wound, knives, glass, and other foreign objects). If the dog is bleeding, control bleeding by applying direct pressure to the wound. If a foreign object has broken the dog’s skin never remove the object, and instead try to control bleeding around the object. Once any life threatening bleeding is addressed, stabilize any injured areas and prepare the dog for immediate transport.

If there are no signs of injury to the dog, quickly check the dog’s temperature for any signs of heat stroke (hyperthermia) or extreme cold (hypothermia) before beginning transport. If the dog is suffering from these conditions, cool the dog down (or warm the dog up in the event of hypothermia) before beginning transport.
How to Identify and Manage the Dog’s Pain

Most dogs will show some symptoms if they are in severe pain, but this is not always the case. Certain breeds of dogs have an extremely high tolerance to pain, and they may not show any symptoms even if they have severe injuries such as a broken bones. This is why it is so important to have a dog thoroughly checked by a veterinarian after an accident even if no symptoms of an injury are apparent.

When an emergency has occurred and the dog seems injured but there is no sign of injury, you can gently palpate the dog’s body and limbs to check for any areas where pain is present. Once painful areas have been identified, these areas need to be stabilized as quickly as possible to prepare the dog for transport.

While a dog in an emergency may be in extreme pain, it is important to realize that the pain cannot truly be managed until the dog has received professional medical attention. However, you can help to reduce the dog’s pain by stabilizing the injury, keeping the dog warm in the event of shock with a blanket, and staying calm with the dog (if dog’s sense that their owners or people around them are upset they will pick up on those emotions and become further distressed).
Transporting an Injured Animal

Keep the injured animal from moving as much as possible and try to stabilize any injuries before transport.

Stabilize any injured areas by wrapping the injured areas in any type of cloth. Stabilize broken limbs with cloth, newspaper, cardboard, or whatever is handy at the time.

Once the injured area has been stabilized, use a large towel or blanket to move the dog. Gently scoot the dog onto the towel or blanket, have two people pick up each corner of the towel or blanket, and lift the dog into the vehicle.

If a dog tries to bite or snap during the transport, it may be necessary to muzzle the dog with a strip of material.

(content courtesy of petwave.com)

How to Choose a Quality Pet Food

If you are to going to feed your dog a commercial food, here are some tips to check for quality:

1. Ingredients are listed in descending order. The first ingredient should be an animal based protein.

2. When selecting a commercial food for your animal companion, make sure the label has an “AAFCO guarantee,” preferably one that references “feeding tests” or “feeding protocols” rather than Nutrient Profiles.

3. Avoid foods that list by-products. (AVOID Meat, Bone, Fish and Chicken Meal) These rendered products are the most inexpensive sources of animal protein. They are not a reliable source of nutrition for your animal.

4. Avoid those that list the food fractions – i.e. wheat middlings or corn gluten instead of the whole grain. These ingredients are leftovers from the human food processing and don’t provide the best nutrition.

5. Avoid generic or store brands. These may be repackaged rejects from the big manufacturers, and generally contain cheaper and poorer quality ingredients.

(Content courtesy of Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM)

Combating the Dreaded "Dog" Smell

There's nothing your dog loves more than spending some close-up, cuddle time with you. But if he's got doggie B.O., you probably find yourself pulling away. The sooner you identify and treat the cause of his B.O., the better your human-canine relationship will be.

Bad breath and gum disease
Good oral care is as important for your dog as it is for you. But many pet owners don’t realize the importance of proper oral care, which may explain why up to 80% of dogs over the age of three have periodontal (gum) disease. These conditions, such as gingivitis, are a leading cause of bad breath in dogs—creating an odor that can make your dog’s loving kisses a less-than-welcome experience.

If your dog has bad breath, check for swollen or bleeding gums, yellow-brown deposits on his teeth, broken or loose teeth, or excessive drooling. Tell your vet if you notice any of those symptoms, and make regular oral care appointments. In addition to treating any periodontal disease your dog may currently have, your vet can recommend an oral care maintenance plan between cleanings to help keep his teeth and gums in the best possible condition.

Skin and coat odors
If your dog's B.O. is coming from his body and not his mouth, the underlying cause could be something as simple as poor or inconsistent grooming. When was the last time your dog was professionally groomed—or even bathed?
Your senior dog's circulation and muscle tone just aren't what they used to be. And his older coat and skin can't revive themselves like they once did. You can make up for the decrease in these functions with a regular grooming routine. Set aside 15 minutes a day (or week, depending on his coat) for a grooming session with a brush and flea comb that suits the length and type of your dog's coat.

When was the last time your dog had a bath? Some dogs tend to be a little greasier, or love rolling in mud and other dirty stuff—so they'll need to be bathed more frequently. If you're not sure about how often you should bathe your dog, ask your veterinarian or an experienced groomer. Frequency of bathing depends on your dog's activity level and lifestyle. Most dogs don't need a bath more than once a month. It’s interesting to note that bathing your dog too frequently can also result in increased odor.

When you bathe your older dog, use:
* Warm water in a warm room.
* Mild shampoo that is specially formulated for dogs.
* Thick, absorbent towels instead of a blow dryer.

If B.O. persists
If routine grooming and bathing doesn't freshen the B.O. situation, the cause could be a more serious condition. Skin diseases, for example, can create strong odors you might find offensive. Allergic reactions that affect your dog's skin can cause a musty smell, and bacterial skin infections and yeast infections can produce very noticeable odors.

Abnormal odors can also arise from other parts of your dog’s body. Maladies of the ear canal are capable of creating an odor that may smell like sewage, and anal sac disease can produce odors that are not easily ignored.

If your dog suffers from chronic and unexplained B.O., see your veterinarian. You vet can diagnose the problem and recommend the best possible treatment. And then, you and your pooch can get back to some well-deserved, close-up cuddle time.

(content courtesy of pedigree.com)

Introducing A Pet Into The Family

You've finally made the decision. After lengthy discussions
as to the pros and cons of owning a pet, you've decided that
the time is right. Your children are no longer infants;
they have spent plenty of quality time with Aunt Trudy's
Labrador Retriever, "Sunny" and her Siamese cat, "Simone".
They have played with a neighbor's German Shepherd. Uncle
Fred has brought his Border Collie," Billy" over to the
house many times. The kids have also learned about animal
companions and how to care for them in school where they
have turtles, bunnies, gerbils and hamsters in the classroom.
Although the kids love every kind of animal, it seems they
are most enamored of the canine variety and want a dog of
their own.

While the kids have been begging for a dog for a long time
(it seems like forever!) you want to make certain that they
(as well as you and your husband) are really ready to assume
responsibility for the life of another living being that
will reside in your home. Your little boy is 8 - his sister
is 5. You want your kids to learn responsibility. Still,
ultimately you will be the primary caregiver and supervisor
of your children. Are you all ready to share this
responsibility?

Before you adopt your new canine, do your homework!!! Go on
the Internet. Read about and research the various breeds of
dogs that most appeal to you and your family and determine
which seem most compatible with your personalities and
lifestyle. Decide if you want to purchase a dog from a
breeder (make sure he's reputable and has references!) or
if you'd like to adopt an animal that is in need of a loving
home from a shelter or "rescue" group.

There are countless breed specific rescue groups across the
country, which feature purebred representatives of virtually
every kind of dog from Mastiffs to Dachshunds. These rescue
groups are easily located on the Internet and commonly
feature a gallery of dogs available for adoption along with
details about the animal's age, health and personality.

There are many wonderful, healthy and loving animals that
have been abused neglected or abandoned and are in need of
loving homes. Too many pets end up in shelters or in rescue
organizations simply because their owners lacked sufficient
understanding about the breed they selected. Perhaps you
can adopt an animal in need of a home!!! Go together as a
family so you can see how each of you interacts with a
potential adoptee. Most organizations or shelters have
special visiting areas and afford you the opportunity to
"play" or visit with the animal. Jointly decide which animal
is best suited for your family.

Before you take the final step of actually purchasing or
adopting a pet, make sure you have asked yourself the
following questions: -How much time does my family
realistically have to spend with a pet?

-How intelligent/trainable is the breed of interest?

-How well does it get along with other dogs? People?

-How large is it, or if it's a puppy, how large will it get?

-Is the dog good (patient and trustworthy) with children?

-How much exercise and space will it require?

-Is my backyard fenced so that my dog can safely run and
play and not escape?

-Can we afford to take care of a pet? Its food and medical
costs?

Once you've determined that you can care for a pet, take the
pet you've selected to a veterinarian (ask pet-owning friends
for referrals) for a check-up to determine if he's healthy
or prone to any health problems. Your vet should provide
you with a vaccine and regular exam schedule. Ask him to
recommend the food and diet best suited to your dog's needs.
It is a good idea to have your pet tattooed or micro chipped
by your vet as a permanent means of identification should
he get lost or stolen. Also, inquire about flea, tick and
heartworm prevention and spaying/neutering.

Once you learn that the pet is in good health, make your
home dog friendly and safe both inside and out. Check the
fence to make certain your dog won't be able to escape.
Inside, determine where your pet will eat and sleep. Provide
bedding and separate bowls for his food and water.

Have the family decide on the pet's name, then purchase a
comfortable, secure collar, an identification tag with his
name and your phone number, and a leash.
When your family is ready to take your pet home, each of
you should pet and speak soothingly and comfortingly to him.
As easily and gently as possible, put on his new collar,
name tag and leash. Speak softly and calmly as you guide
and help him into your car. Gently pet him.

When you arrive home, orient him to his new surroundings
-walk him around your home and introduce him to your back
yard while he's still on leash. Bring him into the house
and take him to his special "place" - then guide him through
your house slowly and calmly so that he will become familiar
with it. Allow him to experience the "scent" of each room.
Finally, show him his bed and his special place and remove
his leash. Give him fresh water and talk to and pet him
gently. Give him some doggie toys to play with. Hold him in
your lap - cradle him in your arms and welcome him into
your family!

So, now, you've completed all your homework. You've read
and researched. You've asked the appropriate questions and
received answers to them. Your expectations are realistic -
And you have finally found the dog of your family's dreams.
Good job - well done! You and your family are now ready to
enter into one of life's most enjoyable, rich and rewarding
relationships and to experience the unconditional love and
acceptance that only a beloved companion animal can provide!!!

Congratulations!!!

DR. DIANE POMERANCE received her Ph.D. in Communications in
1979 from the University of Michigan, and has written the
highly acclaimed children's nonfiction book on pet loss,
"When Your Pet Dies" which teaches children how to cope
with and recover from the loss of a beloved companion
animal as well as from the other inevitable losses in life.
She is also the author of "Animal Companions: Your Friends,
Teachers & Guides", "Animal Companions: In Our Hearts, Our
Lives & Our World.", Animal Elders: Caring About Our Aging
Animal Companions", "Finding Peace After the Loss of a Loved
Animal Companion", and her most recent book "Pet Parenthood:
Adopting the Right Animal Companion for You." As a writer,
teacher, counselor and animal lover, Dr. Pomerance recognizes
that the loss of a pet can be devastating to adults as well
as to children and counsels those mourning the loss of a
beloved companion animal. For over 25 years, she also worked
in a wide variety of capacities in the entertainment industry
both in New York and Los Angeles, including production work
with such programs as NBC's Sports shows "NFL Live" and
"Grandstand", PBS' "MacNeill/Lehrer Report", and "Bill
Moyer's Journal."

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Diane_Pomerance

Ticks - How Can I Prevent My Pet From Getting Them?

Does your pet like to play at the park or in your backyard? If so, your pet may be in contact with ticks! All pets that spend time outdoors can easily pick up a tick! It is very easy for a pet to get a tick and they can pick them up from a number of places. Such places include woods, parks, and even your own backyard. Some ticks cannot be seen because they live in dark, moist environments underneath plants and objects. Other ticks live in plain sight and are able to climb structures, such as fences, trees, or tall grass. A tick can easily attach to any pet close to them, so that being said, it is important to know how to prevent and get rid of them if your pet has one.

How Can I Prevent Ticks?
- While ticks are usually found in woody, brushy, and tall grass areas, the best way to prevent ticks is to treat your entire yard for them. Treat your yard with an insecticide, focusing on areas where ticks would most commonly be found. Also make sure to mow your lawn regularly and keep your bushes trimmed.
- You can also prevent ticks by treating your house for them. Ticks can move around a house very easily so it is important to treat the house thoroughly. Make sure you treat all carpets and upholstered furniture, including the sides and backs of the furniture because ticks can climb it. Be sure to treat walls and baseboards. Ticks will hide in baseboards and climb walls. Also make sure to thoroughly treat closets, storage areas, and other places where ticks can hide in your house.
- You can also get a tick preventative for your pet. Tick preventatives kill ticks that attach to your pet. They are a good way to help protect your pet from tick-borne diseases such as Lyme disease. A good product to use for your dog is called Preventic. It provides safe and effective control of ticks for up to three months and prevents new ticks from attaching and feeding within 48 hours after application.

What Do I Do If My Pet Gets A Tick?
- If you have found a tick on your pet, you need to get it out. Pull your pet's hair away from the tick. Then use tweezers to grab the tick. Try to get as close to the head as possible. Do not squeeze the tweezers. Instead pull up and away from your pet, pulling the tick out. Do this slowly so you do not break off the head of the tick. Then flush the tick down the toilet.
- If your pet has brought many ticks into the house and caused the house to be infested, continually treat the house as stated above. Also be sure to use a tick prevention product on your pet and check its skin every day. It may take several weeks to completely rid the house of ticks.

It is very important to be aware of the areas where your pet can pick up a tick and know what to do if your pet does pick up a tick. Ticks can carry many diseases, including Lyme disease, and easily transmit disease to your pet. During the summer season, a quick tick check every day is the best way to protect your pet.

Facts about Canine Lyme Disease

The first diagnosis of Lyme Disease was made in a resident of Lyme, Connecticut in 1975. Over the decades, the seriousness of this debilitating tick-borne disease has made many people weary of wandering outdoors during seasons when ticks are active. If you live in the Northeast or upper Midwest states, there’s a good chance you know someone who has had a Lyme Disease diagnosis. A decade after being diagnosed in people, Lyme Disease was first recognized as a condition that also affects dogs.

What exactly is Lyme Disease?
Lyme Disease is an infectious disease that is caused by the bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi, which is found in several varieties of ticks, but is mostly associated with the common deer tick. The disease is transmitted when a tick carrying the bacteria bites a dog—or human—and feasts on the host’s blood. It should be noted that not all deer ticks carry the disease, and not all bites from infected deer ticks successfully transmit the disease. For the bacteria to be passed into a dog, the tick must have been attached to the dog for about 48 hours.

So if a tick is removed from a dog shortly after he is bitten, there’s a good chance the dog will not contract the disease. However, deer ticks are extremely tiny and are difficult to see, especially when covered by a dog’s fur. Your vet is trained to spot and remove ticks. If you happen to notice a tick on your dog and want to attempt to remove it, use small tweezers and carefully grasp the tick where it is making contact with the dog’s skin. Then gently lift the tick away. If you suspect that it’s a deer tick, take your dog—and the tick—to the vet for examination.

What are the symptoms?
Lyme Disease isn’t easy to diagnose, especially in senior dogs, because the initial symptoms can be mistaken for other conditions, such as arthritis. Lyme Disease symptoms include limping—which can shift from one leg to another—swelling of lymph nodes, lethargy, loss of appetite, and fever. Initially, the affected dog may simply experience mild joint and muscle discomfort in his limb(s). However, the pain can become severe over time, and multiple joints can be involved Even with treatment, Lyme Disease can cause permanent joint damage. There have also been reports of severe progressive kidney disease linked to Lyme Disease.

Is there treatment for Lyme Disease?
Lyme Disease is generally treated with antibiotics. In many cases, affected dogs respond well to those meds. However, if treatment is halted too soon, the dog may get a relapse. Even in dogs that show full recovery, the bacteria that causes Lyme Disease may still be present in their bodies, even though the dog no longer displays the symptoms of the disease. Senior dogs with severe cases of arthritis—in addition to Lyme Disease—and those dogs that are severely affected may also be treated with pain relievers.

How can Lyme Disease be prevented?
Since Lyme Disease is serious and can be debilitating, dog owners want to take measures to prevent their pets from contracting the disease. Here are a few things you can do to help minimize your dog’s chance of getting Lyme Disease.

Avoid areas that are likely to be tick infested. During the seasons when ticks are active, try to avoid taking your dog into heavily wooded areas or other places where large deer populations live.

Spray your immediate home/lawn area with an appropriate insecticide. If you decide to use an anti-tick spray, make sure it’s safe for dogs.

Vaccinate your dog.
If you live in a high-risk region, ask your vet about the latest generation of Lyme Disease vaccinations. He may recommend one that he deems effective.

Use a topical anti-tick insecticide. There are currently several brands of topical insecticides on the market. They generally help in two ways:(1) By repelling ticks, and (2) By killing ticks that manage to attach themselves to dogs. Ask your vet about the brands he recommends. Please note that most flea and tick collars are not effective against the ticks that cause Lyme Disease. Only collars with amitraz have been shown to kill the ticks that spread this disease.

If you live in—or your dog has visited—a Lyme Disease hot spot and suspect that he is suffering from this condition, do not hesitate to take him to the veterinarian for an examination.

(content courtesy if pedigree.com)