Is Your Dog Wearing the Right Collar?

It seems like there are more and more types of collars being marketed every year. A quick trip to your local pet shop for a new collar could turn out to be a long one because it’s easy to get baffled by the huge selection.

Do you want/need a "traditional" collar, a harness, or a collar that makes a fashion statement? Do you prefer leather, nylon, metal studs, brass buckles, blue, red, green, or another color? Though you may have a preference, in reality the right collar for your dog is the one that is best for him, not you.

What’s right for one dog may not be right for another
The collar you choose for your dog should be based on several characteristics about your dog: his personality, his level of training, and his body size/shape.

Here’s a look at the most popular types of collars and how those factors can help determine the right one for your dog.

1. Traditional fixed-circumference collars: These collars—whether made of leather, nylon, or another material—have a number of holes that allow you to select the size of the circumference of the collar. Just like a typical belt, once you insert the buckle into the hole you select, the circumference is fixed (unless you change holes). These are the most common type of collars and generally are fine for a large variety of breeds—providing that the dog is relatively well behaved. When fitting your dog for this type of collar, make sure it’s not too loose or too tight. Ideally, you should be able to slip two of your fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck. And make sure the collar can’t slip off your dog’s head.

2. Corrective/chain/slip/choke collars: Unlike fixed-circumference collars, these collars are designed to tighten around a dog’s neck if he pulls on the leash. People sometimes choose these collars if their dogs are not well trained and constantly pull forcefully when being walked. When the collar tightens around the dog’s neck, he should feel discomfort and stop pulling. Before choosing this type of collar, consult with your veterinarian or a professional dog trainer.

3. Harness: A harness differs from a collar because, in addition to going around the neck, it wraps around a dog’s shoulders just behind his front legs. Why is a harness sometimes a better choice? If a dog is known to have respiratory or trachea problems, a harness does not place pressure on that delicate part of his body. Many veterinarians and Dachshund owners believe that a harness is safer and more comfortable than a collar because a collar pulls on the neck and can result in neck or back trauma to these dogs that are prone to disc problems. If not fitted correctly, a traditional collar may also slip off a Dachshund’s long, lean head.

Once you find the right type of collar for your dog, then you can indulge your sense of style and find one with the color, pattern, and material that pleases your eye. And remember, your dog's collar is where you attach vital information: ID tag, phone contacts, pertinent health info, etc. So make sure the collar you choose remains comfortable for your dog after you clip on those important extras.

(content available at pedigree.com)

Good Timing Is Critical To Your Dog Training Success

Tips from Adam Katz at DogProblems.com

When we wait and then react to a dog's behavior, we are always going to be behind the eight ball. On the other hand. influencing a dog's emotional process before he acts is an incredibly efficient manner in which to train him. When timing is correct nervousness is inhibited and drive is reinforced.

Also, since we're affecting the internal emotional process, the dog in effect "chooses" to be calm rather than being forced to be under control. A dog so trained will be mannerly or mindful of domestic restraints even when his handler isn't near.

The key to proper timing is not quickness, although that is a valuable asset. Rather, the key is anticipation. The handler should always be thinking ahead and anticipating what the dog might do next. It is a skill easily acquired if one becomes disciplined enough to pay constant attention to the dog. Without good timing, training degenerates into a question of strength.

By being relentlessly focused on the dog, the handler will start to sense the dog's rhythm of actions and be able to anticipate what the dog is about to do. Then, before the dog acts, the handler can already be in gear taking steps to predetermine what the dog will do next. The dog will be choosing to obey; however, since we're controlling his instinctive emotional process, there won't really be any choice involved.

For example, if you are training a dog to heel you should watch his head very closely. When you sense he is about to shift his attention away from you then stimulate the dog with the collar and begin to praise the dog at the same time. Additionally, pick up your pace, and to complete the process, throw a ball for him to chase or give him a food treat.

In this sequence of events, I'm not correcting the dog for being disobedient, I'm shocking the nervousness that I feel is about to influence the dog's behavior and disrupt his focus on me. The praise, food, and the ball then serve to convert the correction to a stimulation. Since I'm the source of the excitement, the dog's calm focus on me from which he was about to stray is renewed and reinforce.

Funny Foto: Where to Even Begin.....

Adopting a Senior Dog: Is Older Better?

When people talk about adopting a dog, it may be a cliché to assume that they will want an energetic, playful puppy. Or, at the very least, a young adult dog.

Deserving as those dogs are of loving homes, they may not be the best choice for everyone. After all, it takes plenty of energy to care for an energetic younger dog. For that reason alone, a senior dog may be a better choice for a senior citizen.

Here are just a few of the many great reasons you may want to consider adopting on older dog:

A good home for a deserving dog. Fact is, our nation's shelters and rescue organizations always house needy older dogs, and usually those animals wait far longer to find a good home than younger dogs.

Spend less time training and more time enjoying. Older dogs are almost always housebroken and don't require the commitment of time and dedication needed to teach a puppy the rules of bathroom etiquette, not to mention time spent cleaning up little "surprises"!

You know what you're getting. Senior dogs are fully grown and mature; so you know exactly what type of dog you're getting in terms of size and temperament, rather than guessing with a puppy.

Older really IS wiser, in many cases. Mature, obedient dogs are generally more patient, more "knowledgeable," less rambunctious, and more disciplined than jumping-bumping-sliding-running-chewing pups.

Older dogs are accustomed to normal everyday schedules. Want a good, uninterrupted night's sleep? You're more likely to get it with an older dog versus a puppy. With older dogs, bathroom breaks, feedings, and playtime are usually reserved for daytime.

No gnaws, nips, or bites. Older dogs have already gone through the teething phase, sparing your dining room furniture, best pair of shoes, and favorite underwear from chew marks.

Older dogs can sometimes be trusted for longer periods alone. Of course, you should never leave him alone for longer than necessary. After all, senior dogs are eager for your company—even if they don't show it by jumping all over you when you walk in the door.

(content courtesy of pedigree.com)

Save Animals AND the Planet

Another wonderful program from our friends at the Humane Society:

Help the planet, help the animals. When you recycle your old cell phones, MP3 players, laptops, and other electronics through My Bone Yard, the value of your item gets donated to The HSUS. It's simple, safe, and My Bone Yard will even pay for shipping.

Learn more here hsus.myboneyard.com

Training: Terminology from Your Dog's Point of View

If our pets could talk, what would they say? I've often times contemplated this with my two rough and rowdy bull terriers, and have come up with some pretty amusing stuff. Perhaps I missed my calling in life, and should've been a comedian. =)

Anyhow, without further adieu, I thought this was a comical piece you guys would enjoy.....


The Doggy Dictionary

LEASH: A strap which attaches to your collar, enabling you to lead your person where you want him/her to go.

DOG BED: Any soft, clean surface, such as the white bedspread in the guest room or the newly upholstered couch in the living room.

DROOL: A liquid which, when combined with sad eyes, forces humans to give you their food. To do this properly you must sit as close as you can and get the drool on the human.

SNIFF: A social custom used to greet other dogs, similar to the human exchange of business cards.

GARBAGE CAN: A container which your neighbors put out once a week to test your ingenuity. You must stand on your hind legs and try to push the lid off with your nose. If you do it right you are rewarded with margarine wrappers to shred, beef bones to consume and moldy crusts of bread.

BICYCLES: Two-wheeled exercise machines, invented for dogs to control body fat. To get maximum aerobic benefit, you must hide behind a bush and dash out, bark loudly and run alongside for a few yards. The person then swerves and falls into the bushes, and you prance away.

DEAFNESS: This is a malady which affects dogs when their person wants them in and they want to stay out. Symptoms include staring blankly at the person, then running in the opposite direction, or lying down.

THUNDER: This is a signal that the world is coming to an end. Humans remain amazingly calm during thunderstorms, so it is necessary to warn them of the danger by trembling uncontrollably, panting, rolling your eyes wildly, and following at their heels.

WASTEBASKET: This is a dog toy filled with paper, envelopes, and old candy wrappers. It is important to evenly distribute its contents throughout the house before your person comes home.

BATH : If you find something especially good to roll in, humans get jealous, and they use this degrading form of torture to get even. Be sure to shake only when next to a person or a piece of furniture.

LEAN: Every good dog's response to the command "sit!," especially if your person is dressed for an evening out. Incredibly effective before black-tie events.

BUMP: The best way to get your human's attention when they are drinking a fresh cup of coffee or tea.

GOOSE BUMP: A maneuver to use as a last resort when the regular bump doesn't get the attention you require ... especially effective when combined with the sniff. See above.

CHILDREN: Short humans of optimal petting height. Standing close to one assures some good petting. When running, they are good to chase. If they fall down, they are comfortable to sit on.

LOVE: A feeling of intense affection, given freely and without restriction. The best way you can show your love is to wag your tail. If you're lucky, a human will love you in return.

Amazing Story - Nine Years Later, Missing Dog Found

A true testament to canine intelligence -

I know what it's like to lose a dog. It happened to me - and to my family - when I was a teenager and Goldie, our standard Poodle, ran away. We looked for her in animal shelters, ran ads in newspapers, put up fliers in our town and surrounding areas. After several months of searching every day after school and on weekends, we lost hope.

One year later, almost to the day she disappeared, our veterinarian called and said he believed he had found her. Someone brought in a scruffy, filthy apricot-colored Poodle, and the ID on her collar listed him as the vet. He called us.

It was Goldie, all right. We thought we would never see her again, but there she was in our vet's office looking scared and uncertain. I can't describe how happy we were.

Those memories came rushing back when I read the story about Muffy, a Terrier mix on the east coast of Australia who went missing for nine years. Nine years! The other day, she was reunited with her family in Queensland.

RSPCA Australia heard about the dog from someone who had seen her living in a suburban backyard in Melbourne. But she looked sickly, so the person called the organization.

"We found her living in pretty awful conditions on a piece of cardboard," RSPCA inspector Gail Coulter (pictured above with Muffy) told the Times newspaper. "She had matted hair and was riddled with fleas and had a really severe dermatitis condition."

A welfare agency discovered that Muffy had a microchip and traced her to the Lampard family, which had purchased another dog, named Jack, after giving up hope of finding Muffy. But Jack died four months ago.

"I just couldn't believe it. It's absolutely amazing," Natalie Lampard told the Times. "I told my daughter Chloe and she was just over the moon. She can't wait to see Muffy again."

The dog will need continued care for her skin condition, but after a 1,250-mile odyssey and almost a decade on her own, she's clearly none the worse for wear.

Oh, the stories she could tell.

Original story can be found in its entirety at http://blogs.dogtime.com/the-news-hound-blog/2009/07/nine-years-later-missing-dog-found

Ingredients for a Healthy Dog - Proper Nutrition

As more people understand the importance of nutrition to their own health, they're starting to consider what's in their dog's food bowl as well. Food manufacturers are only too happy to oblige, and the latest products are likely to be labeled natural or organic, and include ingredients said to promote health, such as blueberries and salmon oil. That said, it can still be a challenge to sort out high-quality chow from the canine equivalent of junk food.

Shopping for good dog food
Reading dog food labels is something of an exercise in futility unless you know the arcane rules governing what they can say, but here are a few guidelines.

Ingredients must be listed by amount in descending order. So if meat is the first ingredient (the ideal to strive for), technically the food contains more of that ingredient--chicken, say--than any other ingredient. In reality, chicken is a heavy ingredient because it contains a lot of water, so it's easy for manufacturers to manipulate the label by listing chicken first and following it with various grains, such as wheat meal, wheat middlings, wheat flour, and so on. It's all wheat, though, and if you were to put it on a scale with the chicken, it would probably outweigh the fowl.
The first ingredient on the label should always be meat with a name--such as chicken, lamb, or beef--as opposed to the generic "meat," which could be anything.

A food should have more meat protein than grain protein. Unfortunately there's really no way to tell that from the label.

One or more types of meat, or high-quality dairy products such as eggs, should be listed among the first three to five ingredients. If the first ingredient is a meat, followed by only grains, or if the first ingredient is a grain, check some other brands before buying.

Marketing terms such as natural or premium have no official legal definition. If you want to know what the manufacturer means by "human-grade ingredients" or "70-percent organic," give the company a call and get some answers. Every can or bag of dog food must list contact information for the manufacturer on the label.

How much to feed your dog
How much your dog eats depends on a number of factors, including age, bone structure, and energy level, as well as the quality of the food you give him.

More important than the amount of food your dog gets is his overall condition. He should look muscular, not fat. If you're unsure whether he's overweight, give him the eye exam and the hands-on test. First, look down at him: he should have a visible waist. Then place your hands on his back, thumbs along the spine and fingers spread downward. You should be able to feel but not see his ribs. If you can't feel the last two ribs, he needs less food and more exercise. If you can see his ribs, feed him more.

Keep in mind:
Your dog will need less food if it's high-quality and contains top-notch ingredients, so don't think you're saving money by buying the cheapest brand or whatever's on sale. That's because foods with high-quality protein are more digestible--that is, your dog can use more of the nutrients they contain--than foods based on grains. You can see the difference in smaller, firmer stools.
Measure his food and feed him twice a

day rather than leaving food out all the time. Take away whatever's left in his bowl if he hasn't finished it in 20 minutes, and you'll help keep obesity at bay. Giving him plenty of daily exercise should do the rest.

Food facts
Give your dog healthy snacks such as fruits and vegetables: apple slices, carrot sticks, orange segments, banana slices, and frozen vegetables are all canine favorites.

It's okay to give your dog a little bite of what you had for dinner, but only the bits you'd eat yourself--no fat or gristle, please!

Some foods aren't good for dogs and can cause serious health problems. These include chocolate, onions, raisins, and grapes.

Feed your dog at the same time every day.

Always feed your dog in his bowl or you're asking for a lifetime of your best friend begging at the table and following you around the kitchen.

Make sure what you buy is high in protein, not grain-based, and that it's AAFCO-tested. The AAFCO, the American Association of Feed Control Officials, is a watchdog group that sets food-testing and labeling standards.

(content courtesy of http://dogtime.com/food-nutrition-the-good-life-recipe.html )

Fun Stuff (with a bonus!) - Tic Tac Toe

If you are bored at work (or home!) - this is a cute game to check out:

http://www.thegoodliferecipe.com/great-promotions/tic-tac-toe.aspx

And the best part - you get a coupon just for playing! =)

Funny Foto: WWE Style...

Dogs Sniff Scent of Drugs on Teens

Parents Invent New Ways to Discreetly Detect Their Children's Drug Use

By GIGI STONE

Oct. 22, 2008

Ali is a highly trained German shepherd that spent eight years on narcotics patrol with the New Jersey police force, hunting down drug smugglers at airports and drug dealers on inner-city streets. Post-retirement, he's working in the private sector, sniffing teenagers' bedrooms.

Read the rest of the story here:
http://abcnews.go.com/WN/story?id=6087872&page=1

FREE Offers for Your Most Beloved Companion

Check out this website! http://dogtime.com/free-coupons-samples.html

I just stumbled upon it last night! What a great resource!

Funny Foto: Why It's NOT a Good Idea to Put your Puppy on Your Desk

I think this blog title says it all....

Web Based Tool to Help You Find Dog Friendly Spots

FINALLY! Someone came up with a comprehensive, searchable website to help us dog lovers search for dog friendly restaurants, hotels, shops, dog parks, and a whole bunch of other good stuff.

You are definitely going to want to bookmark this site!

http://www.beneful.com/WagWorld

The Humane Society University

I wasn't even aware of a program like this, but thought that it might be of interest to some of you: Humane Society University is a private, non-profit institution offering a variety of online, hybrid, and classroom undergraduate degree, graduate certificate and professional development programs in human-animal studies. The University is based in the District of Columbia. Humane Society University offers five terms of intensive 8-week courses per year, for 3 credit hours per course.

The best part? If you already have a bachelors degree are automatically accepted once the application is received! You can learn more about the program here: http://www.humanesocietyuniversity.org/?utm_source=email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=waynehsus

Really Cool Facebook Application

If you are crazy about dogs and want to support animal rescue efforts by helping to keep real dogs out of shelters and in good homes, now you can.

It's easy, simple - and fun! If you are a regular on Facebook, this is definitely for you.....

Learn more here http://www.facebook.com/apps/application.php?id=84027296301&v=info

Helping Animals by Shopping on Ebay?

The Humane Society has really been stepping up to introduce programs that will raise money for animals. This is another fine example:

You can help animals by selling -- or shopping -- on eBay Giving Works. Sellers can designate The HSUS as the beneficiary for 10% up to 100% of the sale price. Just about anything, from jewelry to tires, can be bought and sold. Find out more about selling your stuff, or take a look at what's up for auction today that will benefit The HSUS and help animals.

Check out the website at http://www.ebaygivingworks.com/

Happy Shopping (and selling)!

Funny Foto: What in the World?

Can someone please explain to me how something like this even happens?

Does Your Dog Have The "Home Alone Blues"?

It was a fun and active summer for your family—and that includes your dog.

The kids were home from school and spent their days running around with their friends. The house was lively, exciting, and filled with people. To social creatures like your dog, this is the life!

But wait, something’s happened. The calendar says September and suddenly the kids are away in school all day, the house is too quiet, and your dog is feeling lonely. At this time of year, many dogs have a hard time adjusting to the change in pace and rhythm. Separation anxiety may set in and, as a result, your dog may whimper, bark, or howl for long periods when you leave the house. Other symptoms of separation anxiety include having “accidents” on the carpet, destructive chewing, and furniture scratching.

When you or your kids finally come home, you may also find that your dog has become very clingy, following you around the house and never letting you out of his sight. In some extreme cases, dogs will even resort to self-mutilation, chewing excessively on their tail or paws.

Breaking the pattern
Separation anxiety is not the same as simple bad behavior and cannot be treated as such. Getting angry at your dog isn't the solution—in fact, it will create even more anxiety because your dog will associate your absence and return with punishment.

Here are a few ways you can help your dog deal with separation anxiety:
1. Review the "sit" and "stay" commands.
First, practice these commands with your dog as you move from one place to another. Reward your dog with a treat if he obeys. If he doesn't obey, try it again for a shorter time and distance. As your dog obeys, slowly increase the time and distance.

2. Alter your habits.
Do you have a set routine each day before you leave the house? Perhaps you jingle your keys, put your bag or briefcase near the door or kiss your spouse and kids. Your dog picks up on these cues, and associates them with your leaving. Try to mix up your normal routine by doing your usual activities in a different order.

3. Practice leaving.
Using the "sit" and "stay" commands you practiced with your dog earlier, do the same exercise again, only this time go out the door and come back. Stay away for a couple of minutes at first, then increase the amount of time you’re away. You may have to take it slow the first time. If your dog starts to get upset, go back to shorter periods of time. Repeat this exercise until your dog starts to trust that you will always return.

4. Go for a walk.
Taking your dog for a long walk before you leave will give your dog a reason to look forward to your departure. It will also help make him too tired to howl or destroy your home after you leave.

5. Use his crate.
If your dog has been crate trained, this is the perfect time to put him in his "private den" with some comfortable bedding for the few hours that he’ll be left alone at home. Since he feels safe and secure in his crate, there’s a good chance that he’ll be relaxed—instead of anxious—when you leave the house.

With some time and a lot of patience, your dog will no longer be singing the "Home Alone Blues"—and your family can be confident knowing that you can leave the house without making your dog anxious.

(content courtesy of pedigree.com)

Microchips: Common Questions

George Bernard Shaw once quipped, "Science … never solves a problem without creating 10 more." Well, microchipping pets hasn't exactly created 10 previously unknown problems, but the important new technology has left some pet owners scratching their heads like dogs. Particularly now that microchip manufacturers have developed competing technologies.

The brave new world of microchipping has left pet owners with questions. In this section, the experts at The HSUS answer them.

I have heard there are problems with microchipping pets. What are the issues surrounding microchipping?

There were several different microchip frequencies that required a specific scanner to read each one. In other words, each microchip could only be read by that company's scanner. If an animal entered an animal shelter, the shelter worker would have to individually scan the animal with each of the manufacturers' scanners—a tedious and imperfect system, to say the least. If the shelter did not have the right scanner for the microchip implanted in the animal, the animal could pass through the shelter and the owner would not be notified. That, however, has changed with the extensive distribution of universal scanners, which read all microchip frequencies on one hand-held scanner.

Is there a scanner that can read all the different types of microchips?

Yes! Universal scanners are now readily available to all U.S. animal shelters and veterinary clinics. They are universal because they must read multiple microchip frequencies sold by different microchip manufacturers. There are at least four different microchip frequencies marketed in the U.S.

The universal scanner is a necessity to allow shelters and veterinarians to be able to read all microchips easily and accurately. The next logical step to improving microchips is a failsafe method of animal/owner identification—the total adoption of the ISO international standard frequency microchip. This microchip is used by the majority of the countries of the world, but not by all the manufacturers in the U.S. Several of the U.S. microchip companies have already made the switch to the ISO standard chip. We would encourage the rest of the companies to do the same!

My animal has already been microchipped, how do I know if my local shelter will be able to read the information on it?

The only way to know for sure if your local animal care facilities have the ability to read the microchip implanted in your pet is to call them. Search online or check your local listings to find your local shelter.

My animal has not yet been microchipped. If I purchase one, how do I know if my local shelter will be able to read the information on it?

This is the responsibility of the business or group providing the microchip. Ask whether the chip being implanted in your pet is compatible with the readers in place in your community. If there is any question, call your local animal shelter to be sure.

What do I do if my local animal care facility cannot read the chip that is implanted in my pet?

Call the microchip manufacturer and ask that they send at least one scanner to your local facilities free of charge.

What is The HSUS doing to help?

The HSUS was the first group in the U.S. to call a meeting in July 2004 in Washington, D.C., of all the microchip manufacturers and all major animal welfare groups to discuss the issues related to microchips and try and find solutions. As a direct result of this meeting came the creation of The Coalition to Reunite Pets and Family to address changes necessary in the microchip industry. The HSUS continues to work as an active member of the coalition to address microchip issues.

How long do microchips last? Do they ever need to be replaced?

Microchips are designed to last the lifetime of a pet—a chip typically lasts at least 25 years. Chips do not need replacing. Once the microchip is implanted, it will remain there and active for the life of the pet.
What else can I do to ensure that my pet will be returned should he or she become lost?

All pets should wear identification tags at all times. Tags should include a local contact number, as well as a number for a friend or out-of-town relative. Proper identification tags are your pet's first ticket home if he becomes lost. Microchips provide an important extra level of protection in the event your pet becomes separated from his collar and tags. Providing your pet with both tags and a microchip can help ensure a happy reunion if the unthinkable happens: your beloved pet gets lost.

(Original article can be found in its entirety at http://www.hsus.org/pets/issues_affecting_our_pets/common_questions_about_microchips.html)

Cool Microsoft Initiative

For those of you haven't seen this - it's pretty neat:

The Humane Society of the United States has teamed up with Microsoft to be a part of i'm™, a new initiative from Windows Live Messenger and now, Windows Live Hotmail!

How It Works

Each time you send a message using Windows Live Messenger or Windows Live Hotmail, Microsoft shares a portion of the program's advertising revenue with some of the world's most effective organizations dedicated to social causes, including The Humane Society of the United States. All you have to do is sign up!

You can learn more here:

http://www.hsus.org/shop/microsoft_im_initiative.html

Safest Cars for Dogs

By Warren Clarke, Automotive Content Editor

These days, more pets than ever are traveling in vehicles; unfortunately, though, most drivers aren't taking the steps necessary to ensure that this travel is safe both for them and their pets. Most of these animals ride unrestrained, increasing the risk of pet injury or fatality during an accident. The animals aren't the only ones at risk: If you have an accident at 35 mph while toting your 60-pound unrestrained dog, your pet is capable of causing an impact of up to 2,700 pounds, slamming into the seat, the windshield, or even a passenger. If your unrestrained pet survives the crash, Fido or Fifi may impede or slow the progress of rescue workers, who'll need to secure the traumatized animal before treating human victims.

Bark Buckle Up is committed to informing pet owners about the dangers of unrestrained pet travel. The organization tracks in-depth statistics regarding pet safety, and works with police and fire departments as well as the general public to promote safe pet travel. As part of its Pet Safety Program, Bark Buckle Up and Edmunds.com have collaborated to determine the 10 vehicles whose features make them best suited for transporting you and your animal companion in safety. The top choices are listed below, in alphabetical order.

Dodge Journey: To ensure the safety of drivers, passengers and pets, all gear should be secure when driving, and the Journey offers in-floor storage bins that elegantly achieve this objective. Sadly, many pets are injured by drivers who unknowingly run them over while reversing — the Journey offers a rearview camera that helps drivers avoid this tragedy. Other available features include an in-dash cooler that can be used to store beverages, medicine or pet food; an LED rechargeable flashlight; and steering-wheel-mounted controls (useful in lessening driver distraction).

Ford Flex: Larger dogs and their crates will be comfortable in the roomy Flex; the crossover offers ample legroom and wide door openings for easy ingress and egress. Other pluses include a refrigerated console and five-star crash test scores.

GMC Acadia: Tri-zone climate control is available in the Acadia. This feature is important in SUVs, station wagons and minivans; it helps monitor temperature in the rear of the vehicle, thus ensuring that pets secured in back aren't exposed to extreme heat. The Acadia also offers a direct link to poison control via its OnStar feature (many animals are injured each year from ingesting potential pet poisons like antifreeze, chocolate and tea), along with rear fold-flat seats that accommodate travel for larger pets and their crates.

Hyundai Tucson: Turn to the Tucson for pet-safe available features like automatic climate control and fold-flat rear seats. This Hyundai also offers remote keyless entry (helpful if your hands are full managing a dog on a leash) as well as privacy glass that helps keep temperatures cool in back.

Jeep Liberty: The Jeep brand offers specialized pet travel gear, including crates, carriers and a ramp. The ramp is useful for larger dogs, as well as older and/or arthritic pets. This gear may be used with the Liberty and all vehicles in the Jeep lineup. Other useful Liberty features include a split-folding rear seat and available keyless entry.

Kia Borrego: Full-length side curtain airbags with rollover sensors can keep both pets and their owners safe, and they're offered in the Borrego. The SUV also offers a back-up warning system and rear camera display.

Mazda Mazda 5: Three words: sliding rear doors! The Mazda 5 offers easy-access dual sliding rear doors with a one-touch walk-in feature. These doors simplify pet access, and make it a breeze to secure them. The minivan is also notable for having earned five-star crash test scores and for having side curtain airbags in all three rows. Its low cargo floor facilitates easy pet access, and the Mazda 5 also has tethers and anchors in both the second and third rows — helpful since pet safety seats need to be secured in the same way as a child's.

Mitsubishi Outlander: Side airbags, five-star crash test ratings and steering-wheel-mounted auxiliary controls are all part of the Outlander's arsenal of available offerings. The SUV also boasts fold-flat seating and stowable third-row seats (both of which increase the amount of room available for larger pets), as well as more than a dozen storage compartments for your gear and your pet's.

Subaru Tribeca: Pet owners will appreciate the Tribeca's five-star crash test scores, steering-wheel-mounted auxiliary controls and rear back-up camera.

Volvo XC70: The XC70 is available with a Volvo-designed pet barrier. This is not a one-size-fits-all system with suction cups and Velcro — this is the real deal. Many pet barrier systems are not designed to remain in place during an accident; this system — crash tested by Volvo — has been created to remain intact in a collision. The barrier may be installed by the dealer, and is bolted securely into the vehicle. Another great feature is the XC70's blind spot warning system. A pet in back can sometimes impede visibility — as a result, any safety feature that helps with blind spots is a big plus.

(this article can be found in it's original entirety at http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/155306/article.html)

Some FUN Dog Quotes for Today...

"I wonder what goes through his mind when he sees us peeing in his water bowl."
--Penny Ward Moser

"Whoever said you can't buy happiness forgot about puppies."
-- Gene Hill

"My dog is worried about the economy because Alpo is up to $3.00 a can. That's almost $21.00 in dog money."
--Joe Weinstein

"Dogs need to sniff the ground; it's how they keep abreast of current events. The ground is a giant dog newspaper, containing all kinds of late-breaking dog news items, which, if they are especially urgent, are often continued in the next yard."
--Dave Barry

"Anybody who doesn't know what soap tastes like never washed a dog."
--Franklin P. Jones

Funny Foto: Doggie Cold?

You think it was allergies, or a cold? =)

Teaching your puppy commands

Dogs are pack animals and, as a result, a strict hierarchy is completely normal to your puppy. If you treat him as a partner with equal rights, you may confuse him by giving him too much freedom. To be a happy and well-adjusted companion he needs clear rules and he needs his role, and your role, clearly defined.

There must be a leader of the pack.

From the very first day you bring your puppy home he is going to look for his place in the hierarchy of his new “pack.” This gives you the chance to introduce your puppy to rules and roles through playful training exercises. Limit each training exercise to five minutes, and train for no longer than 15 minutes per day. Always praise your pup when he completes an exercise completely. Make sure that you are the one who decides when the game or exercise starts and when it ends. Even if your puppy brings you his complete collection of toys, you should say “no” occasionally – this will remind your puppy that you are the pack leader. Your tone of voice When training your pup you don't need to shout to let him know what behavior you expect.

The tone of your voice is much more important, and will help your puppy understand whether you are praising or scolding him. It’s best to use a direct, authoritarian manner with your puppy. If you are too polite with him – which in people-speak often means tacking on “if you don’t mind” or “would you please” to whatever you’re saying – your puppy is not going to understand you.

Command words
Always be consistent with the command words you choose for certain actions. Also, to help your puppy recognize the command word, and the action you want him to perform when he hears it, you should choose short, one-word commands, not long sentences. For example, if you are training your puppy to come to you when called, the command “come here!” is actually too long. “Come!” is the right length. Teaching the “come” command Begin training your puppy indoors. To get your pup to react to you and come to you when you call him always use the same command word, such as “come.” After you have called your puppy once or twice, he will probably come running to you. Praise him lavishly, and give him a food treat if you wish.

Sometimes your puppy may have something more important on his agenda than coming to you when called. If he doesn't come to you after you've called him twice, go to him, pick him up and carry him to the spot from where you gave the command. Then repeat the exercise right away. However, if you have to chase your puppy to pick him up then it’s better to walk away from him rather than have him think you’re playing a new game.

If you walk out of the room your puppy will usually follow you.

These training tips don’t apply outside your home. When outside, your puppy should be on a leash until he is fully trained. Obedience classes can help train your puppy or perfect what he’s learned – you may also enjoy working with your puppy in a group. Another important aspect of obedience classes is the regular contact with other dogs. This will teach your puppy how to interact with other dogs, and it will help him develop self-confidence.

(content courtesy of pedigree.com)

Choosing a Veterinarian

A veterinarian is your pet's second-best friend. When selecting a vet, you're doing more than searching for a medical expert. You're looking for someone to meet your needs and those of your pet, a doctor who has people as well as animal skills. The worst time to look for a vet is when you really need one, so plan ahead and choose wisely.

Because veterinarians often work with a team of professionals, including technicians and qualified support staff, you will likely want to evaluate the entire vet team's competence and caring. If you think the veterinarian is terrific but don't care for one of her staff, you may not be happy. On the other hand, while the location may be convenient and the fees may suit your budget, you may not feel comfortable about some other aspect of the facility. Weigh the factors that are important to you, but remember you will probably be happier if you drive a few extra miles or pay a few extra dollars to get the care you desire for your pet.

How Do I Find the Right Veterinarian?

The best way to find a good veterinarian is to ask people who have the same approach to pet care as you. Start with a recommendation from a friend, neighbor, animal shelter worker, dog trainer, groomer, boarding kennel employee, or pet sitter. Check the Yellow Pages under "Veterinarians" and "Animal Hospitals," where important information may also be provided about hours, services, and staff. You can also search for veterinarians in your area at www.pets911.com.

Some veterinary hospitals are members of the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA). AAHA membership signifies that a veterinary hospital has voluntarily pursued and met AAHA's standards in the areas of facility, equipment, and quality care. Other veterinarians are board certified in a particular area of veterinary medicine such as ophthalmology, surgery, or cardiology, which means they studied an additional two to four years in the specialty area and passed a rigorous examination.

Once you've narrowed your search, schedule a visit to meet the staff, tour the facility, and learn about the hospital's philosophy and policies. This is a reasonable request that any veterinarian should be glad to oblige. Write down your questions ahead of time.

What Do I Look For?

• Is the facility clean, comfortable, and well-organized?

• Are appointments required?

• How many veterinarians are in the practice?

• Are there technicians or other professional staff members?

• Are dog and cat cages in separate areas?

• Is the staff caring, calm, competent, and courteous, and do they communicate effectively?

• Do the veterinarians have special interests such as geriatrics or behavior?

• Do fees fit your budget, and are discounts for senior citizens or multi-pet households available?

• Are x-rays, ultrasound, bloodwork, EKG, endoscopy, and other diagnostics done in-house or referred to a specialist?

• Which emergency services are available?

• Is location and parking convenient?

How Can I Be a Good Veterinary Client?

Learn what is normal for your pet so you recognize the first signs of illness, and see your vet regularly for preventive visits, not only when your pet becomes ill. If a pet is not well, don't wait until she is really sick before calling your vet. It is frustrating for a vet, and heartbreaking to owners, to see an animal die of an illness that could have been treated successfully if professional care had begun sooner.

Schedule appointments, be on time, and—for your pet's safety as well as that of other clients and pets—bring your pet to the veterinary office on a leash or in a carrier. Even if you have an emergency, call ahead to ensure that the veterinarian is available. An emergency may occur when your vet is not available, so ask for a referral to an emergency veterinary facility.

Before it becomes necessary, take a practice drive to the veterinary office, since trying to find it when you really need it can cost precious minutes. Post the office's number near your telephone for quick access. Do not disturb your veterinarian during non-working hours for matters that can wait, and do not expect your veterinarian to diagnose a pet's problem over the telephone.

How Can I Be a Responsible Pet Caregiver?

Prevent pet overpopulation and gain a happier, healthier pet by having your animal spayed or neutered. Keep your pet safe indoors, adopt a pet for life, and choose a caring and competent veterinarian who will provide years of quality medical care for your beloved companion animal.

As a pet owner, you are ultimately responsible for your pet's care. If you feel your needs as a client or the needs of your pet as a patient are not being met, it may be time to find a new veterinarian. However, many situations are a result of misunderstandings, which can be resolved through talking things out and looking for solutions. If you cannot resolve a fee or treatment dispute with your vet, you may contact the ethics and grievance committee of your local or state veterinary association and/or the American Veterinary Medical Association. For serious issues of medical competence, you may file a formal complaint with the Veterinary Licensing Board in your state. And finally, you can take up the matter as a civil suit with your attorney. You can hopefully avoid such unpleasant experiences by carefully and thoughtfully choosing your veterinarian—your pet's second-best friend.

(content courtesy of the Humane Society)