Saturday, October 31, 2009

Friday, October 30, 2009

Do You know What to do in an EMERGENCY?

This is again commentary by Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM. But important (at least in my opinion) for every pet owner to know)

It's gotta be every pet owner's nightmare.

They are going for an enjoyable stroll while their dog frolicks with his buddies at the dog walk.

Max races to beat Shorty for the ball... Max inhales the ball.

He gasps for air.... while he's struggling to breath, you run over to him, then he drops.
What would YOU do??

I can imagine what you're all thinking... Just reach inside his mouth and remove the ball. SIMPLE...?

Not So Easy.

First, it's difficult to get your hand deep to the back of the throat, especially in a small dog.

Second, I have seen many balls wedged so far back in the throat, that NOBODY can use their hand to remove them.

The clock is TICKING... YOU'VE got to act FAST.

So Now What?

You could pick him up in Your arms, carry him to your car, and rush to the closest Vet... But You need to go fast, for if you don't get there in 2 minutes, then its TOO LATE.

What would You do with a Choking Person... The Heimlich.

With a Dog: The Heimlich.

You Hold him upside down, with his head pointing down and his spine against you.

You give repeated sharp thrusts to the abdomen.

You lay him down and sweep the throat again for the ball.

You repeat this until the ball comes out.

I think that every pet owner should know basic CPR.

If you're like most pet owners and would like to know more about Pet First Aid, then go here and get my new Pet First Aid Manual, "Pet First Aid: Complete Canine And Feline First Aid Manual": http://www.petfirstaidsecrets.com/.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

What to Do If Your Dog Is Lost

Even the most careful pet owner can lose their dog. A houseguest may leave a door or window open or your dog may wander off through a hole in your fence that you never noticed. Unfortunately, dogs go missing every day—and if you need proof, just look at all the LOST DOG flyers posted to telephone poles and bulletin boards in your neighborhood.

Prevention and precautions
The time to prepare for the possibility that your dog can go missing is now, when he’s safe at home. Here are a few things you can start to do today:
1. Identification tags.

Make sure your dog wears identification tags at all times. The ID tags should have current information and be easy to read.

2. Microchips.
The use of identification microchips has become popular, and for good reason: microchips have helped reunite many lost dogs and their owners. Microchips are about the size of a grain of rice and are implanted under the loose skin on your dog’s shoulder. These chips contain identification information that can be read by scanners that are found in animal shelters, vet offices, and rescue groups around the country. When the chip is implanted in your dog, you register the chips number/letter code and your contact information with the microchip company’s registry. The code number will then be recorded in a shared database that can be accessed by the organization using the scanner.

3. Prepare a LOST DOG kit.
Your kit should include recent pictures of your dog (both paper photos and electronic photo files for Internet posting), ready-to-post LOST DOG flyers with your dog’s photo and an accurate written description of your dog, and a phone number where you can be reached at any time. You may want to think twice before publicizing your name and address because you never know if disreputable people will be reading your notices.

4. Close off areas of possible escape.
Check and double-check your home to ensure that there aren’t any open doors, windows, or gates that your dog could slip through. Check around your yard fences to make sure there aren’t any craters or tunnels under your fences that lead to the world outside. If your dog is small, remember that he may be able to squeeze through very tight places to make his escape.

5. Check your dog’s leash and collar.
A loose collar, broken leash fastener, or threadbare leash could allow your dog to get loose when you’re out for a walk and he gives it a tug. Invest in a quality leash and collar—and make sure you use them properly.

What to do if your dog is lost
Sometimes, despite all precautions, a dog manages to go missing. The first thing to do is to stay calm. It’s natural to be worried, but if you don’t stay calm, you won’t be able to take the steps necessary to help find your dog.


Here are some next steps:
1. Search your home carefully. Look all over your home, including the basement, behind appliances, and under blankets and beds to make sure your dog isn’t right there under your nose.
2. Search the neighborhood. Dogs can wander far and wide, so ask your friends and neighbors to help you look for your dog. Take a flashlight with you to help you look into dark places. (A lost and frightened dog may seek refuge in a dark, secluded place.) And don’t be shy—shout your dog’s name. If he hears your familiar voice, he may come running to you. And if he has a favorite squeak toy, take that, too. The sound may reach his ears and lure him to your side.
3. Post LOST DOG flyers. Make sure your flyers have your dog’s photo, the name he answers to, and your contact information. And remember, rewards are good incentives to get other people looking, too. However, you don’t have to mention the amount of the reward. The word "reward" is sufficient.
4. Place LOST DOG notices and read FOUND DOG messages in local newspapers. People who find lost dogs often read these notices to see if any description matches the dog they’ve found. You may also find a "Found Dog" notice that matches your dog’s description.
5. Notify your local authorities. Tell your local police department, animal shelter, and animal control authorities about your lost dog. They’re experts when it comes to finding lost dogs in the area where you live.
6. Place his bed or other favorite items outside your house. These are things with your dog’s scent deeply ingrained in them. Dog’s have an ultra-sensitive sense of smell and your lost pooch may actually follow his nose home.


(content courtesy of pedigree.com)

Monday, October 26, 2009

Allergy Remedies - Treating Itchy Skin

Here are some options:

ANTIHISTAMINES. Benadryl is the most commonly used antihistamine. It is give at a dose of 1 mg per pound of body weight, 2-3 times a day.

Cats respond well to Chlortripolon at 2 mg, 2-3 times a day. It is best to consult your veterinarian before using these medications.

It often takes 14 days of using these to see if they are helping.

BIOFLAVONOIDS. These are compounds found in the pigment of fruits and vegetables. One found in apples, QUERCETIN, has been shown to be effective in reducing itchiness in people: the dose is 25 mg/10 lbs of body weight twice daily.

A Basic Formula for Chronic Skin Problems:
-2 parts Burdock root, 1 part Dandelion, 1 part Red Clover, 1 part garlic powder
-Use the tincture (buy individual tinctures, mix together) or tea (blend herbs in a tea)
-Provide additional flaxseed oil, evening primrose oil, borage seed oil, or fish oil


Dose: 1 tablespoon per forty pounds of your pet's body weight daily.

This assists organ functions and helps nutrient absorption. It's also important to keep in mind that tonic herbs work slowly, and it may take several days or even weeks to see results.

Herbal Symptomatic Relief: With mainly itchy skin: Oatmeal based shampoos or a Peppermint skin rinse.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

WorldPoints

For those of you who didnt know (I know that I didn't) - if you're an HSUS cardholder -- or any other Bank of America World Points cardholder -- you can donate your World Points to The HSUS. Points redeemed help support our work to confront cruelty and celebrate animals.

Simply go to this website
https://www.rewards-catalog.com/epx/index.cfm?uid=77667865876777&web=MSR&dt1=3476865&fuseaction=EPortal.CatalogItem&IID=14394&catPg=EPortal.CatalogItem&category1=DON&category2=ALL&bcCat1=Donations&bcCat2=ALL&SP=1&KW=&SPID=&bcSpotlight=&bcSpotlightCls=&A2KVal=0&BID=&BCBRAND=&ILC=EN&search=N&itemdet=Y and choose your donation amount.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Dog Massage?

If you are into this type of thing, here are some tips from Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM:

Key Points
* Massage therapy works in a variety of ways
* Repetitive low loads on muscle allows tissue elongation
* Assists in moving fluid through the lymphatic system
* Removes and replenishes tissue fluid
* Improves movement in abnormal tissue (scars, adhesions)
* Effect on mechanoreceptors may alter pain perception
* The effects on cortisol, serotonin, dopamine, and norepinephrine levels have not been conclusively explained
* Appropriate massage touch has many healing properties, although the methods are not always known

Key Therapeutic Points
There are multiple types of massage strokes and techniques--we will discuss the most commonly used ones for small animals. Keep in mind, contact should always be maintained between the massage therapist's hand and the patient.


Stroking
* Superficial, relaxed long movement with the tips of fingers or palms of hands
* Very light pressure--.5-1 lb
* Slow speed, 1 stroke every 3-6 seconds
* Along length of muscles, in same direction hair grows
* Used for soothing and calming effect

Effleurage
* Most common move
* Typically used every second move, at beginning and end of massage
* Always use this stroke in direction of heart
* Increases venous and lymphatic flow
* Stretches muscle fibers
* Relaxes muscles
* Gliding motion with whole hand, with thumb following fingers
* Use one or both hands with even pressure over muscles
* Stroke every 2-3 seconds
* Pressure applied can vary
* Light pressure, 2-3 lbs, is soothing
* Heavy pressure (10-15 lbs) has significant effect on circulation
* Can be done very rapidly to warm up for exercise

Petrissage
* Foundation of massage
* Kneading, muscles squeezing, compression, wringing up, and skin rolling
* Soothing at 1 stroke per second
* Stimulating at 2-4 strokes per second (athletic warm-up)
* Intermittent pressure and relaxation

Kneading
* Performed with thumbs or palmar surface of three fingers
* Rhythmic, circular movements, small circles
* Start at 2-3 lb pressure
* In large muscles may gradually increase pressure to 5-12 lbs
* Intersperse with effleurage

Compression
* Use palm of hand or lightly clenched fist, alternating hands in rhythm
* Use only on large muscle groups of large dogs
* Use caution with increased pressure
* Alternate with effleurage

Muscle squeezing
* Relaxes tense muscles
* Used on neck, back and leg muscles
* Movement of hand is between extended fingers and heel of hand
* Start gently with 5-10 lb pressure
* Use in slow rhythm, 1 per second
* Fast rhythm, 2-4 per second for athletic warm-up

Wringing up
* Used on shoulders, neck and back
* Increases circulation, relaxes muscles
* Performed with palms, thumbs abducted at 90 degree angle
* Both hands flat on body part, then wring muscle from side to side
* Start at 2 lb pressure, gradually increase depending on muscle mass and size
* Slow rhythm of 1 stroke or less per second

Skin rolling
* Helpful in maintaining skin elasticity and to prevent adhesions
* Lift skin between fingers and thumbs, push thumbs towards fingers
* Performed slowly and lightly--no more than 2 lb pressure at most

Best of all, this is something that YOU can do at home to HELP Your Pet Heal!!
For MORE in-depth training, get my 45 minute Full Demonstration Pet Massage DVD Video at:
http://www.veterinarysecretsrevealed.com/massage/

Friday, October 23, 2009

Dog Proofing Your Home

If you've never had a puppy, you're probably blissfully unaware of how much damage can be done with 28 pointy baby teeth that a vampire would envy. And even adult dogs who need a brush up on training can wreak more havoc than you'd think possible.

While training your new dog where to go to the bathroom and what to chew, protect your home--and your dog's health--by dog-proofing your house.

Steps
1. Lie down on the floor and remove anything you don't want chewed or swallowed. That includes nails, decorative items, buttons, needles, socks, craft items, and so on. Err on the side of caution; you'd be surprised by what a chew-crazy canine can fit in his mouth.

2. Wrap exposed electric cords in spiral cable wrap, cord concealers, or PVC pipe. It's also a good idea to unplug them when they're not in use once the pup arrives. Electrical cords are one of the top dangers to puppies.

3. Tie up drapery cords. They can injure your pup if he gets tangled up.

4. Put all toxic chemicals in a locked area or well out of your dog's reach. That includes antifreeze, rat poison, medication, household cleaners, insecticides, toilet bowl cleaner (keep your toilet lid down if you use automatic bowl cleaners), mothballs, and more. Don't rely on the packaging to keep your pup out of these items; you'd be surprised by what a dog can chew through.

5. Check your home and yard for plants that are toxic to dogs. Some to look for: azalea, calla lily, dieffenbachia, poinsettia, philodendron, belladonna, buttercups, creeping Charlie, elderberry, daffodils, poison ivy, poison oak, rhubarb, stinging nettle, white clover, and yew.

6. Put foods that are harmful to dogs well out of reach. Stuff that's fine for people, like onions, raisins, and chocolate, is toxic for dogs, and so are all tobacco products, including gum and nicotine patches.

7. Move all trash cans out of reach. Kitchen and bathroom trash is doggie nirvana.

8. Keep clothing picked up and make laundry baskets inaccessible. Dogs love to chew on items like socks, nylons, and underwear.

9. Set up safety gates and/or childproof latches to keep your dog out of dangerous areas. These may include balconies, decks, pools, hot tubs, cabinets, compost bins, space heaters and fireplaces, and litter boxes. (Litter can cause an obstruction.)

10. Block off garages or sheds where toxic items are stored. You want to keep your pup well away from stuff like antifreeze, rate poison, charcoal lighter, gasoline, motor oil, paint and paint thinner, fishing hooks and lines, and pesticides.

DogTime tip: A good rule of thumb is that if something isn't safe for babies and kids, it's not okay for dogs either. If you're unsure, always keep the item off-limits. It's better to be safe than sorry.

(article can be found in its original format at http://dogtime.com/dog-proofing-dog-training-center.html, photo can be found at http://www.flickr.com/photos/svetlai/914824024/)

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Good Apartment Dogs Who Are Easy to Train

Good apartment dogs who are easy to train are not necessarily smarter than other dogs, they may be more interested in the training lessons and have a greater desire to please you. Even the best apartment dogs who seem bored with your training attempts may show their smarts through imaginative escape artist maneuvers and their overall problem solving abilities.


1. American Eskimo Dog
2. Bull Terrier
3. Havanese
4. Maltese
5. Manchester Terrier
6. Norfolk Terrier
7. Papillon
8. Pembroke Welsh Corgi
9. Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen
10. Poodle

(original list can be found here: http://dogtime.com/good-apartment-dogs-easy-train.html )

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Exercise and Your Dog (and How It Can Benefit You Too!)

Why someone didn't come up with this sooner! Brilliant!


“Now you don't have to leave your dog at home while you go to the gym,” says sisters, Jill and Jamie Bowers, co-founders and dog trainers of Thank Dog! Bootcamp- you're dog IS your workout partner!

With the growing epidemic of both human and dog obesity, exercise has taken on greater importance. For most people, exercise becomes a chore and quit before they even get started. By adding the dog, getting healthy seems less like work and more like fun!

Exercise Program with Your Dog
Why would your dog be a great workout partner? If self-motivation isn't enough, with a majority of Americans being overweight, owning a dog is and that's what makes
Thank Dog! Bootcamp different. Doing an exercise program with your dog is an automatic motivation that will stay consistent throughout the program and here's why: Dogs love to run as much as they love to be with their owner.

They will never say no to exercise, which means the owner stays motivated regardless of how they feel or what kind of day they had. And honestly, how could one say no to those puppy dog eyes when all the benefits outweigh the moments of self doubt and lazy thinking?

A study was designed by Dr. Kushner, co-author of “Fitness Unleashed,” as he called it People and Pets Exercising Together, or PPET. The study took place at Northwestern University in Chicago, where overweight owners and dogs alike were put through an exercise and nutritional program for several weeks. Although, the owner's weight loss was significant, each week they were more focused on the positive changes they saw in their dogs' health which kept them going to reach their weight goals. Finally, when it was over, all the participants spoke mostly about their dogs and essentially said the same thing during the exit interviews: They stuck to it because their dog loved it so much.

Thank Dog! Bootcamp is a one-stop fitness program that unites a workout for people with obedience training for dogs. It's a combination of weight training, cardio training, and dog training to give both the human and dog a workout while teaching the dog how to behave.
A certified fitness and dog trainer directs the daily one hour workout.


Each session consists of on-and-off 10 minute cardio intervals. Basic obedience commands are integrated throughout the exercise program to ensure a smooth workout for everyone. Dogs learn to obey and focus in high energy environments, while both are getting a strenuous workout. When the human weight training sessions are going on, the dog will practice “go to your place”. It's a balanced approach for both the dog's physical and mental well-being.

“We believe in quality exercise over quantity, working both your dogs mind and their bodies!”

Additional Benefits
Aside from reaching your fitness goals, the combination of physical and mental stimulation is necessary to have a happy and healthy pooch. Mental stimulation for a dog is just as tiring as physical activity and without it, they get bored just like humans. Contrary to what some dog owners believe, dogs actually do like to work and thrive on mental challenges. It tires them out where boredom doesn't create those unwanted behavioral problems like chewing, excess barking, and digging holes in the backyard.


They build endurance just like we do and when pent up energy is only being released through physical activity, their minds are left focusing on other ways to balance out. Dogs are intelligent animals, survivalists, and need their minds exercised just as much as their bodies. After all, it's not like they can pick up a book or watch TV! They can only do what we give them and that's why Thank Dog! Bootcamp was designed this way.

Don't worry, even the most unruly and untrained dog can participate in this program. The only exception is dogs that are aggressive towards people. Otherwise, all dogs are accepted! They also welcome all body types and fitness levels to attend.

Why not just exercise?
Obedience training is necessary as it's the key to establishing leadership and a clear line of communication between dog and human, while also building and strengthening the relationship.

On that note, fitness can be unpleasant to exercise a dog if they don't know how to heel, have leash aggression towards other dogs, and/or always pulling ahead as if it was his/her idea to go for the run in the first place. And, that's only referring to one dog and their owner - think about 20 people in the same place dealing with leash issues! It would not only be chaotic and distracting from the people exercise, but could be dangerous as well.

One week prior to starting, a certified dog trainer and personal trainer meets with new enlistees to conduct a consultation for both dogs and their people. There, basic obedience (a detailed lesson plan is even provided to take home as a practice guide, where the training continues for a peaceful home environment) are taught and human weight/measurements and health history are taken.

“A tired dog is a good dog and a trained dog is an even better dog, so get your shoes on, grab a leash and come play with us!” - Thank Dog! Bootcamp

Monday, October 19, 2009

Puppies! Crate Training Your Puppy

What is crate training?
Crate training does not mean confining your puppy so he doesn't get into mischief. This isn't the correct use of the crate. Because most puppies don't like to soil the place where they eat and sleep, the crate is a very effective way of house-training your puppy. An added bonus is that most puppies feel very comfortable in a crate as it provides a safe den for them.

How to crate train your puppy
If you purchased a large crate so that your puppy can use it when he is full-grown, partition it. This will make it more den-like and comfortable for your puppy. He will also be less likely to soil the smaller space as long as he's not left in the crate for extended periods. Make the crate comfortable by lining it with your puppy's favorite blanket.

Step 1:
Put a few treats in the crate and show your puppy how to get in. Once he is in, praise him a lot and reward him with a treat. Don't close the door of the crate. At this point you just want to introduce your puppy to the crate, and show him how to get in and out.

Step 2:
Choose a cue word that will be used consistently, such as "crate." Using the word you have chosen, lead your puppy to his crate with a treat. Again, once in, reward him with a lot of praise and a treat. Repeat this several times until your puppy knows what you want him to do when he hears the cue word.

Step 3:
When your puppy is familiar with the cue word, repeat the above step but this time, once your puppy is in the crate, shut the door. The door should only be shut for a very short period of time. Immediately upon taking your puppy out of his crate bring him outside and give him an opportunity to relieve himself.

Step 4:
As your puppy gets used to resting in the crate you can give him the cue word at different times and for longer intervals. You should be at home when your puppy is crated, and he should not be crated for longer than 45 minutes to an hour.

Successful crate training
The crate should be in a high traffic area of your home. If your puppy feels isolated he won't enjoy the crate. As with any training the more enjoyable it is for your puppy, the more successful it will be. In order for crate training to be successful a puppy should never be sent to the crate as a punishment. And, because most puppies can't control their bladders for extended periods, they should only be in the crate for short periods of time.

Immediately upon taking your puppy out of his crate bring him outside and give him an opportunity to relieve himself. Puppies should be given an opportunity to relieve their bladders every hour. If your puppy has soiled his crate, it's likely he was left in the crate too long. With proper crate training you establish a routine with your puppy, and he is more likely to relieve his bladder in the correct spot in your presence.


(content courtesy of pedigree.com)

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Keeping Your Dog Fit

Regulating your dog's weight is important. Recent studies show that 30 to 40 percent of pets in the United States are overweight and 25 percent tip the scales into obesity.

Obesity, one of the most common dog afflictions in the United States, puts pets at greater risk for cardiovascular disease, joint and skeletal problems, respiratory problems, diabetes, and some cancers. An extra pound or two can make a big difference on your dog's small frame. Although ideal weight varies from breed to breed, you must strike a healthy balance between diet and exercise to keep your pup in good shape.

Is your dog gaining weight?
Look at your dog. Can you identify a waistline or a more slender area between the ribs and hindquarters? Feel your dog's ribs. They should not be prominent, but can you feel them easily when applying gentle pressure? If you answered "yes" to these questions, your dog is probably not overweight. The best authority for advising you of your dog's ideal weight is your
veterinarian.

How can I control my dog's weight?
Dogs respond to the same weight control methods that humans do--controlling caloric intake and getting the proper amount of exercise. Ask your veterinarian to help you develop a diet and exercise program to keep your dog healthy and fit.


If your dog is overweight, switching to dry food may help him lose weight as it tends to be less calorie-dense than canned food. Cutting back on the amount of food and on the frequency of treats also helps your dog control his weight.

The best diet for dogs is low in fat and high in fiber. Puppies under 12 months of age need extra protein, calcium, and iron to accommodate growth. Your veterinarian may prescribe a special weight-loss formula food for your dog. Weight loss should be attained slowly. A one to two percent loss per week is best.

Treats for your dog
It's hard to resist giving our dogs special treats but there are many
low-calorie treats available. Treats should be kept to a minimum. It's easy to lose track of the number of treats you feed your dog. Try setting aside a daily allotment that accounts for about 10 percent of your dog's daily caloric intake and then stick to it.

Many dogs like apples, oranges, carrots, broccoli, potatoes, and green beans, but if these do not agree with your dog, ice cubes make special crunchy treats, especially on warm days.

Table scraps may contribute to your dog's weight gain as they usually contain fat and salt and other ingredients your dog does not need. Keep these temptations out of reach of your pet. Most pet foods provide the appropriate amount of nutrients so treats should be saved for special occasions. Talk with your veterinarian about the best treats for your dog.

Source: Adapted from the American Animal Hospital Association

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Fun Stuff - Animated Dog Greeting Card Maker

If you ever want to send a special someone something to make them chuckle, here you go:

http://dogtime.com/dancing-dog

And the best part? It's free! Can't get much better than that!

Friday, October 16, 2009

Learn Why Rubbing Your Dog's Ears Is A Natural

Nearly all dogs loving having their ears rubbed. You wouldn't think this would be such a common phenomenon. After all, there are hundreds of breeds, and all of their ears are different. Papillons' look like wings, German shepherds' are sharp peaks, and basset hounds have big, hanging floppies. But they all love a little ear work just the same. It's pretty much universal. Dogs crave affection and touch from their owners, so a rub on the ears meets a basic need for communication.

It's All About The Nerves

Ears are one of a handful of nerve centers on a dog's body that are extra-sensitive to touch. The only other places that are nearly as sensitive are their bellies and the nooks between their toes.

When you rub a dog's ears, the pleasure she feels is intense. And the good feelings don't stop on the surface. Their ears contain nerve branches that extend to the internal organs, says. When you rub them, your dog doesn't just feel good on the top of her head. The pleasure comes from inside her body too.

Because the ears are such a hotbed of nerves, they're the primary target of people who practice acupuncture and acupressure. Putting pressure on the ears sends nerve impulses right through the body. There's essentially an entire map of the body on the ear. In fact, many acupuncturists only work on ears, because they can treat the whole body that way.


Bliss From Natural Chemicals

It's not uncommon for dogs to get so relaxed and blissful when they're getting their ears rubbed that they slip into happy sleep. It's not only because they're feeling comfortable. Rubbing the ears sends nerve impulses to the hypothalamus and pituitary glands. These glands secrete endorphins, pain-killing, feel-good hormones that make dogs feel relaxed, even euphoric. When you rub your dog's ears, she's essentially getting high on her own hormones.

So is the person doing the petting. Researchers have found that people get a lot of the same benefits that their dogs do. Rubbing dogs' ears triggers a flood of human endorphins. This in turn helps people relax and even lowers blood pressure.


(content courtesy of DogProblems.com)

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Puppy Biting...

by Kelley Filson, CTC, CPDT

A normal, healthy pup will want to bite and chew--on EVERYTHING! This means your pup will try biting you!

RELAX! Your puppy is NOT aggressive. Your puppy is not trying to dominate you. Your puppy is not being naughty. Your puppy is just being a puppy!

This does not mean that you should encourage biting. Furthermore, this does not mean you should ignore your puppy's inappropriate biting. It is important to address biting BEFORE it becomes a problem!

Some Background...
Puppies have very sharp, needle-shaped teeth. When a puppy bites, these teeth hurt, a lot! This is good. Puppies lack adult-dog, jaw strength. If they didn't have such sharp teeth, it would be hard for them to realize that they are capable of hurting others with their teeth.

Puppies need to learn BITE INHIBITION. This is a term that is used by veterinarians, trainers, and behaviorists to describe how hard a dog bites down when they place their mouth and jaws on a person or dog. Think of your dog's teeth like the brakes in your car. You can press the brakes gently or slam on them. At some point when you are driving you will need to brake, but how you brake depends on lots of factors... Is there a threat, are you going slow or fast, have you been paying attention, etc...

At some point in your dog's life they are likely to use their teeth in a fight, or to protect themselves or their stuff. When this happens you want them to inhibit themselves and use the minimal tooth & jaw pressure needed to make their point.

When Your Puppy Puts Their Teeth on Your Skin...
I allow gentle mouthing until pups are about 3-4 months old (they start getting adult teeth). This is because I want my puppy to practice using their jaws gently. When a pup bites too hard, I say "OUCH!" in a calm, but clear voice. Then I walk away from my pup. I do not shove, grab, hit, or otherwise try to give the puppy a punishment. Don't hold their mouth shut or yell at them. The punishment is that you ignore them.

All puppies need SOME rough-play time. If my pup is too worked-up to use their jaws calmly, I bring a toy into the situation. They are allowed to be rough, bite, shake and growl at the toy. BUT... If they miss the toy and bite me by mistake, I say, "OUCH!" and walk away for 10-15 seconds. They get three attempts. On the third mistake, I stop playing with them for at least 20 minutes.

Once a pup is 3-4 months, I no longer allow teeth on skin. Should a pup make a mistake, I do the following:
1) On the first mistake, I re-direct them to a toy.
2) On the second mistake, they get an "OUCH!" and ignored.
3) On the third mistake, they get put in a confinement area until they calm down.

FINAL NOTE! Give your puppy LOTS of toys, bones, and chews!!!

(this article can be found in its entirety at http://blogs.dogtime.com/go-dog-training/2009/08/puppy-biting-teeth-on-toys-please )

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Helping Animals on Your Big Day

You know, I really do have to give a round of applause to the folks at the Humane Society - they have so many wonderful ways that people can help raise money for the benefit of animals.

Here is yet another perfect example:

Getting married? By creating a wedding registry at WeddingChannel.com, your guests can purchase gifts with a portion of the sales price benefiting The Humane Society of the United States. Or, in lieu of gifts, you can request that your guests make secure, online, tax-deductible donations to The HSUS to help the animals.

Monday, October 12, 2009

Lost Dog Knows the Way Home

Another amazing story:

by Michael Martinez on Thursday August 20, 2009.
I wanted to write this story last week, but I got sidetracked by all the news about Michael Vick - his return to professional football, his appearance on "60 Minutes," his first taste of freedom after spending time in prison for financing a dogfighting operation.

Finally, I can tell you about Jarvis, a Jack Russell Terrier that got separated from his owner and somehow found his way home. And in a way, it relates to the Vick case because it explains something about dogs that many people forget.

It happened this month while Jarvis was on a walk in the south of England with Vivienne Oxley, his owner. As Jack Russells often do, he saw a rabbit and chased after it.

The two became separated, and Oxley, after searching for him for an hour, finally gave up. Little did she know that Jarvis knew the way home.

According to the Daily Telegraph, he walked a quarter mile to a passenger ferry and got on board for the ride across the Plymouth Sound. The park warden, who had been alerted to the dog's disappearance by Oxley, called to tell her that six-year-old Jarvis had been seen boarding the ferry.

Before she could get to the docks and get him, though, she got a call from her husband telling her that Jarvis was already home. He apparently had gotten off the ferry and walked another half mile to the family residence.

"I just couldn't believe it," Oxley told the Telegraph. "I was so relieved. When I got home he just sat in the window as if nothing had happened."

Amazing, right?

People who want to forgive dog abusers so easily often say, "It's just a dog." But think about it: Here's a dog that had the intelligence and resolve to find his way home - from many miles away.
Dogs and cats are smart, and perhaps that's one reason we make them our pets. They understand us. They know when we're happy or feeling blue. They love our companionship. They know our moods in ways that others don't.

That's why I find it so hard to believe that people can't understand why dog lovers are reluctant to forgive someone like Vick, who clearly had (and may still have) such a cavalier attitude about dogs that he thought nothing of willfully killing them.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Take a Peek at Your Pet’s Eyes

Eyecare for your dog
by Dr. Ernie Ward

Eye injuries are one of the most serious conditions seen by veterinarians. Because pets often mask the clinical signs associated with an injured eye and don't complain as we do, many pet owners fail to recognize a problem, ignore it, or worse, try to treat it on their own. To help you get a clearer view of your pet's eyes, let's look at some of the most common eye problems in pets, how to tell if your pet is affected, and what you should do.



Rule number one: do no harm
Spanky was a small-breed older dog that had been diagnosed with eye problems in the past. It was usually something minor: allergies, infection, nothing serious. So when Spanky began pawing at his eye one evening, his owner searched the medicine cabinet for the last eye medication Spanky had been prescribed.


Two days later, Spanky visited our office in trouble. The vision in his eye was in real danger of being lost. Fortunately, after surgery with a veterinary ophthalmologist, Spanky retained his eyesight. What happened?

Rule number one of any suspected eye injury: never put anything into your pet's eye without consulting with your veterinarian first. Spanky almost lost his eye because his pet parent administered a medication used to treat inflammation and allergies into an eye with an ulcer. The medication worsened an already severe condition. No matter how many times your dog has experienced an eye problem or the number of pets you've owned in your lifetime, don't let your dog become a Spanky.

Corneal injuries
The cornea is the clear tissue in the front of the eye through which we see. Because it doesn't have any blood vessels (it's clear) and it is exposed to the environment most of the time, injuries are common. Many pets will have a scratch on the cornea called a corneal laceration that may become a deeper injury known as a corneal ulcer. These injuries are often caused by a wayward claw, blade of grass, or fight with another animal. They may also be caused by contact with liquids such as shampoos or flea sprays or gases such as smoke.

You can tell if your pet has a corneal injury because it will usually squint, close the eye, avoid bright light, rub at the eye with its paws or you may see a red, bloodshot, swollen or wet eye. The discharge may be clear or yellow-green in color. If you see your pet closing or squinting its eye, have it seen by your veterinarian immediately. Superficial injuries can quickly become infected and a minor injury progress to a major one in a matter of hours. Don't delay; your pet has only two eyes.

Dry Eye
"Dry eye" is another name for keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS). Dry eye is caused by decreased production of tears causing the cornea to become dry and ulcerate. It is described as quite irritating and painful in humans with the condition. The cause is thought to be an inherited immune disorder in certain families of dogs. In simple terms, the dog's immune cells attack and damage the cells that produce tears. Once the damage is severe, dry eye occurs.

To combat dry eye, an immunosuppressive drug, cyclosporine (also used to fight cancer), is most commonly used. Tacrolimus is also used in some cases. Breeds most commonly affected include: Cocker Spaniel, Boston Terrier, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Bulldog, English Springer Spaniel, Lhasa Apso, Miniature Schnauzer, Pekingese, Pug, Shih Tzu, West Highland White Terrier, and Yorkshire Terrier.

Cataracts
Cataracts are one of the most common age-related conditions diagnosed in veterinary medicine. Cataracts are also one of the most common causes of blindness in dogs and cats. You can spot cataracts by the familiar blue to gray hue in your pet's eyes. As the cataract worsens, you may be able to see a crystalline structure form just behind the pupil.

The great news is that your pet doesn't have to go blind from cataracts. The same surgery that is performed on people is performed on pets by veterinary ophthalmologists. If you don't choose to have a cataract removed, your veterinarian should monitor for the development of glaucoma (an increase in the pressure inside the eye).

Many pets with mature or hypermature cataracts (advanced stages associated with blindness or near-blindness) will develop glaucoma. The test for glaucoma is typically performed by a tonometer. This is a pen-shaped instrument that measures the pressure in the eye. The test simply requires your pet's cornea to be numbed with a topical solution and takes only a few minutes.

Diagnosing Eye Injuries
If your veterinarian suspects an eye injury, the first test performed is almost always a corneal stain. This test consists of applying a dye, typically fluorescein dye, in the eye to detect any tiny breaks in the cornea's outer layers. Your veterinarian will often examine the eye using magnification and a special blue wavelength of light. If the cornea is damaged, as in Spanky's case, your veterinarian will avoid eye medications that contain topical steroids. Without knowing if the cornea is damaged or not, your veterinarian cannot safely prescribe eye medications.

If dry eye is suspected in your pet, a tear production test will be conducted. This test involves the use of a special tear-absorbing film that is gently placed in the corner of each eye. The strips are held in the eye for one minute and the amount of moisture wicked on the test strips is measured. If your pet isn't producing enough tear film, it will be started on cyclosporine or tacrolimus and re-checked in thirty days. Once adequate tear production is achieved, the pet is monitored every three to six months. Treatment is almost always for life in patients with dry eye.

Are dogs colorblind?
One of the most common dog eye myths is "they see in black-and-white." Not true! According to the latest research, dogs are most likely red-green color blind. This means they see blues and yellows really well but greens and red may be misinterpreted as another hue. Cats are believed to see in color. They seem to prefer color combinations with more contrast. You may interpret this as a dog would enjoy a bright blue bed while a cat favors pink and green polka dots!

Your pet's eyes are a precious gift; take good care of them. While cases such as Spanky's are rare, when they occur it's a sad, avoidable tragedy. When in doubt, ask your veterinarian.

Together you can ensure your pet sees the world as it was intended--with you front and center and in full focus!

Ernest E. Ward, Jr., DVM is the owner of E3 Management, a North Carolina-based consulting firm that helps veterinarians improve client service, profitability, and standards of care. He also is owner and chief-of-staff of Seaside Animal Care, a nationally recognized award-winning small animal practice.

(photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/stiang/400132282/; content courtesy of http://dogtime.com/dog-eyecare-ernest-ward.html)

Saturday, October 10, 2009

A Way to Help: The Pet Postcard Project

Found this website while browing online over the weekend. It's called The Pet Postcard Project and aims at helping shelter animals one postcard at a time.

The Pet Postcard Project is the brainchild of writer Nikki Moustaki, who has come up with a very clever idea! Information from The Pet Postcard Project:

"Pet Postcards" for this project are homemade postcards featuring your own pets that you make and then snail mail into The Pet Postcard Project. Each card earns 1 pound of food for shelter dogs. So, if you send 10 cards for the cost of a stamp, you have given 10 lbs of food for shelter pets!
The postcards are roughly the size of an average postcard, and are decorated with photos of pets, drawings, markers, colored pens, stickers, glitter, pretty paper -- some are simple (made at your office while you're supposed to be working) and some are beautiful and complex (made by hardcore scrapbookers), and some are computer generated (for those tech savvy pet lovers).

But the thing they ALL have in common is how the card makers feel about their pets.

The Pet Postcard Project is currently receiving help from Rachael Ray and her Nutrish "Food Raiser" Campaign. Rachael has pledged 1 pound of dog food for each homemade postcard received in the mail by the Pet Postcard Project!

The goal is to give 3 TONS of food to both Best Friends Animal Sanctuary and Sabbath Memorial Dog Rescue.

While you are browsing the website, make sure you check out the wonderful monthly postcard contest they run and enter for your chance to win some outstanding prizes. Don't forget, each card you enter earns a pound of dog food for shelter dogs and cats!

Friday, October 9, 2009

Free Pet Cam

This is pretty neat:

PetWave.com's newly launched Pet Cam feature, powered by Highlightcam.com, is a webcam video service that automatically finds the best parts of your videos and shows you just those parts. The technology powering this free service makes it easy to find where your cat did a back flip or when your dog decided to dig through the trash. One click lets you jump to the same spot in the original video, to see and hear the whole thing.

Want your own pet-cam?
Getting started is easy, just log into your existing PetWave.com member account, or if you are new, sign up as a member to PetWave.com. Once logged into your PetWave member account, click on the Pet Cam tab, and follow the instructions. No need to install specialized software--we'll save your recordings, find the highlights, and give you a secret web address to view them anywhere. Only you (and anyone you choose to share with) can see.


Keeping a watchful on your pet has never been easier.

Learn more by clicking here:
http://www.petwave.com/Pet-Cam.aspx?utm_source=petwave&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=newsletter

Thursday, October 8, 2009

NY Bill Would Protect Dogs

by Michael Martinez on Friday August 07, 2009.

Have you ever seen a dog tied to a fence or wandering the streets and wondered if it was abandoned?

While it hasn't happened to me, I'm sure it's happened to others. But if you live in New York and take a dog or cat, believing you're rescuing it, you could be breaking the law. That is, if a New York State assemblyman has his way.

Joseph R. Lentol, who represents part of the Fort Greene neighborhood in Brooklyn, is pushing a bill that would make stealing a dog or cat a felony punishable by up to two years in jail. The current law is considered no worse than stealing a VCR.

The law is intended to discourage those who would kidnap a pet intentionally, not because they think it's in need of help. If a person intends to kidnap the animal to sell it for scientific research or to be used in dogfighting, it would become a more severe felony, punishable by up to four years in jail.

Taking a dog because you sincerely believe it's in distress is something else altogether, Lentol's media coordinator told the New York Times.

"There is a very strong element of intent with this," Amy Z. Clearly said. "You have to know that you are taking someone else's animal from their possession, not an abandoned animal on the street or one that got lost."

Lentol has said he will add a "safe harbor" proviso to his proposed law to protect those whose intentions are good. He wants to stop anyone who takes an animal knowing it will be harmed.
I'm all for that. It's time we make laws that acknowledge our pets to be members of the family, not inanimate objects.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Dog Park Do's and Don'ts

Off-leash dog parks are a wonderful recreational outlet for all types of dogs.

Unfortunately, not every dog park is filled with responsible owners, and a few unmannerly people can ruin the whole experience. Make sure you're not one of those humans by following these basic etiquette tips for dog parks.

Be Healthy
Never bring your sick or unvaccinated dog or puppy to a park full of other dogs. You're just asking for a rapid spread of disease, some that could be fatal. So if your dog is suffering from kennel cough, has fleas or mange or other health problems, keep him at home and isolated.

Be Clean
Make sure to pick up after your dog. Leaving piles for other dog owners to clean up is not only unforgivably rude, but could assist in the spreading of disease and intestinal parasites. Plus not cleaning up after your dog could result in your being fined and banned from the park.

Be Responsible
Always be responsible for your dog's behavior. If your dog digs a hole, fill it back in. If he can't play nicely with other dogs on that day, take him home.

Be Smart
Remember, while it's fun to bring your dog to the dog park, there are several things you should never bring, including children, female dogs in heat and other animals that aren't dogs. All of these things are disasters waiting to happen and should be avoided completely.

Remember, dog parks are a great escape for both you and your pet, but by following the proper etiquette you can be sure that it's also a great experience for everyone else.

(photo can be found at http://www.flickr.com/photos/hodgey/2569397308/ ; content can be found in its original entirety at http://www.iams.com/iams/en_US/jsp/IAMS_Page.jsp?pageID=A&articleID=im_dg_ad_dogparketiq )

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Puppies! The Puppy-Child Bond

There are many benefits to the relationship between puppies and children. The following article will provide tips that will help make that relationship memorable and lasting.

Watchpoints: young children and puppies
Veterinarians often advise parents to wait until their children are between 7 and 9 before having a puppy join the family. But this is not always realistic and, with supervision, smaller children and puppies can live happily together.

Supervision is important for many reasons. Toddlers may think that puppies are toys that enjoy having their tails pulled, and puppies may mistake toddlers for littermates, and be rougher with them as a result.

Children and puppies may decide it's a good idea to try each other's food; because of this, it's important to keep dog food out of reach of babies and toddlers. Some types of puppy food and treats could lodge in a child's throat, and a baby or toddler might cause a puppy to be ill by feeding him the wrong kinds of food, or too much food.

How puppies benefit children
As children become older they can take some of the responsibility for the puppy's care, as long as an adult supervises. Many parents bring a puppy into the family to teach their child responsibility. But it's important to remember that children generally have short attention spans, and that the parent is responsible for the puppy's care.

A puppy can teach a child many lessons. While learning about the importance of brushing their puppy's teeth, for example, a child may understand why it's important for them to brush their teeth and practice proper grooming.

Puppies love unconditionally and children who are lonely, or have high demands placed on them, often find that a puppy provides a non-judgmental friend and relieves stress. And, because puppies communicate differently than humans, they teach children to be aware of body language and non-verbal communication. This helps to instill compassion and sensitivity in children.

(picture courtesy of
http://www.findoutaboutpuppies.com/images/Labrador%20Retriever%20puppy400.jpg ; content courtesy of pedigree.com)

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Home Safe Home: Home Safety for Large Dogs

Your home is where your heart is. It's the one place where everyone in your family can come and feel safe, protected and loved. But are you sure everyone in your home is safe?

Read up on what you can do to make sure your four-legged family members also stay free from harm.

Fix Your Fences
Your dog is in the most danger when he's not in your backyard, so make sure he stays put by checking to see if your yard is securely fenced in. Make sure he can't jump over or squeeze through any part and that all your gates are closed. If you don't have a secure fence and occasionally have to use a zip line, make sure you keep an eye on them in case they get tangled.

Prepare Your Pool
Many dogs are attracted to swimming pools. They just love to retrieve interesting buoyant objects while their owner is out of sight. To make sure your dog doesn't go for an unexpected dip, surround your pool with pet fencing. If that's not an option make sure your dog has the ability to get out of the pool if he happens to go in. Also, remember to store all pool chemicals safely out of his reach and make sure your electrical leads can't be found by a chewing puppy.

Beat the Heat
Help prevent your dog from getting dehydrated and being susceptible to heat exhaustion in the warmer months by making sure he always has plenty of fresh drinking water. And remember the bigger the dog, the more water he's going to need. If your dog is a breed with a thick coat, look into getting him a cooler haircut for the summer to help curb the heat. Also, see that he has at least one cool, shaded area to rest in. Patios and driveways can become scorching during the hottest time of the day and could burn your pet. A good rule of thumb is if it's too hot for you, it's too hot for him.

Curb Your Chemicals
Your dog probably enjoys all the interesting bugs in your backyard, but if you feel the need to spray for them, make sure you keep him out of the yard for at least 24 hours. Check the plants in your yard as well. Some popular plants, like the yew, azalea and oleander can be fatal if your dog thinks they look tasty. Also, if you have a four-legged friend who likes to eat random things, try and keep him away from compost, peat and red mulch. Each can be toxic if eaten in large amounts. It may seem like making your yard safe for your dog is just as hard as making your yard safe for a child ... but in a lot of ways, it's the same thing. Your dog is a family member you love and don't want to see hurt, so take the time to make your yard safe for everyone!

(article can be found in it's original entirety at http://www.iams.com/iams/en_US/jsp/IAMS_Page.jsp?pageID=A&articleID=im_dg_lg_safehome ; photo can be found at http://www.flickr.com/photos/22062613@N04/2131850350/ )

Saturday, October 3, 2009

How to Make Moving with Pets Easy

By Kristen Levine
June 30, 2009 1:03 PM

Moving is clearly among the most stressful changes in life for us humans. Imagine what pets are thinking when 'home sweet home' is packed up and hauled off, only to reappear on strange new turf!

"The environmental changes, alterations in social structure and variation in routines can be very disconcerting for your pet," explains veterinary behavior expert E'Lise Christensen, at NYC Veterinary Specialists in Manhattan. "All these changes can make a pet feel insecure and anxious".

So during this hectic time, be careful not to overlook the needs of your furry, finned and feathered friends. Planning is key in for a smooth transition.

Before the move
Begin packing well in advance so your pet becomes accustomed to changes in their environment.

"If your routine will alter after the move, gradually alter it before the move," urges Christensen.

Therefore, change play times and walk times a bit. If your move will take you from an urban environment to a suburban or rural one (or vise versa) introduce your pet to new environs and assess their response.

If you have concerns about how your pet might react to these changes, Christensen suggests consulting with a veterinary behaviorist to develop a treatment plan for your pet.

As soon as you know your new address, purchase new identification tags for each pet. If your pet is microchipped, call the microchip manufacturer to update the database with your new contact information.

Moving Day & Travel
Be sure your dog or cat is wearing their collar with new ID tags on moving day. When the movers arrive, secure pets in a quiet room, away from the main traffic areas to prevent them from escaping. Be sure to alert each mover and family member that the room is off limits.

Time to hit the road? Whether transporting your pet by plane, train or automobile, talk to your veterinarian for advice on how your pet can make the trip most comfortably. For air travel, allow ample time to make arrangements and meet all air travel guidelines.

Settling In
While you and your family may be excited about your new habitat, your pet may feel confused or disoriented and will take some time to adjust to their new surroundings. Be patient and offer lots of love and affection to soothe their nerves.

Christensen recommends purchasing pheromone diffusers -- often helpful in calming both dogs and cats. The diffusers are available at most pet supply stores.

Cats: For the first few days, your cats will benefit from being confined to a single room while you organize the rest of your home. Unpack their bedding, toys, food and water dish and litter box and consider a window perch for them to enjoy the new view. After a few days, introduce cats to one new room at a time, always reminding them where the litter box is located.

Dogs: Ideally, introduce dogs to a new home when furniture is in place. Let them become familiar with one room before introducing to another. This can take a few days, but will ease your dogs' nerves and prevent a frightened escape. And when taking your pet outdoors, keep him or her on a leash.

Choose a new veterinarian for your pet as soon as possible! Talk to neighbors or contact the local veterinary association for help. Also, find the nearest emergency veterinary hospital and take a practice drive to find it so you don't waste precious time in a crisis.

With your love and assurance, your pet will soon adjust to your new abode. After all, for pets, home is where you are!