What is a Dog?

What is a Dog?

1) Dogs lie around all day, sprawled on the most comfortable piece of furniture in the house.
2) They can hear a package of food opening half a block away, but don't hear you when you're in the same room.
3) They can look dumb and lovable all at the same time.
4) They growl when they are not happy.
5) When you want to play, they want to play.
6) When you want to be alone, they want to play.
7) They are great at begging.
8) They will love you forever if you rub their tummies.
9) They leave their toys everywhere.
10) They do disgusting things with their mouths and then try to give you a kiss.

I am your puppy.....

From - your puppy....

I am your Puppy, and I will love you until the end of the Earth, but please know a few things about me.

I am a Puppy, this means that my intelligence and capacity for learning are the same as an 8-month-old child. I am a Puppy; I will chew EVERYTHING I can get my teeth on. This is how I explore and learn about the world. Even HUMAN children put things in their mouths. It's up to you to guide me to what is mine to chew and what is not.

I am a Puppy; I cannot hold my bladder for longer than 1 - 2 hours. I cannot "feel" that I need to poop until it is actually beginning to come out. I cannot vocalize nor tell you that I need to go, and I cannot have "bladder and bowel control" until 6 - 9 months. Do not punish me if you have not let me out for 3 hours and I tinkle. It is your fault. As a Puppy, it is wise to remember that I NEED togo potty after: Eating, Sleeping, playing, Drinking and around every 2 - 3 hours in addition. If you want me to sleep through the night, then do not give me water after 8 p.m. A crate will help me learn to housebreak easier, and will avoid you being mad at me.
I am a Puppy, accidents WILL happen, please be patient with me! In time I will learn.

I am a Puppy, I like to play. I will run around, and chase imaginary monsters, and chase your feet and your toes and 'attack' you, and chase fuzz balls, other pets, and small kids. It is play; it's what I do. Do not be mad at me or expect me to be sedate, mellow and sleep all day. If my high energy level is too much for you, maybe you could consider an older rescue from a shelter or Rescue group. My play is beneficial, use your wisdom to guide me in my play with appropriate toys, and activities like chasing a rolling ball, or gentle tug games, or plenty of chew toys for me.If I nip you too hard, talk to me in "dog talk", by giving a loud YELP, I will usually get the message, as this is how dogs communicate with one another. If I get too rough, simply ignore me for a few moments, or put me in my crate with an appropriate chewtoy.

I am a Puppy; hopefully you would not yell, hit, strike, kick or beat a 6-month-old human infant, so please do not do the same to me. I am delicate, and also very impressionable. If you treat me harshly now, I will grow up learning to fear being hit, spanked, kicked or beat. Instead, please guide me with encouragement and wisdom. For instance, if I am chewing something wrong, say, "No chew!" and hand me a toy I CAN chew. Better yet, pick up ANYTHING that you do not want me to get into. I can't tell the differenc ebetween your old sock and your new sock, or an old sneaker and your $200 Nikes.

I am a Puppy, and I am a creature with feelings and drives much like your own, but yet also very different. Although I am NOT a human in a dog suit, neither am I an unfeeling robot who can instantly obey your every whim. I truly DO want to please you, and be a part of your family, and your life. You got me (I hope) because you want a loving partner and companion, so do not relegate me to the backyard when I get bigger, do not judge me harshly but instead mold me with gentleness and guidelines and training into the kind of family member you want me to be here.

I am a Puppy and I am not perfect, and I know you are not perfect either. I love you anyway. So please, learn all you can about training, and puppy behaviors and caring for me from your Veterinarian, books on dog care, and even researching on the computer! Learn about my particular breed and it's "characteristics", it will give you understanding and insight into WHY I do all the things I do. Please teach me with love, patience, the right way to behave and socialize me with training in a puppy class or obedience class, we will BOTH have a lot of fun together.

I am a Puppy and I want more than anything to love you, to be with you, and to please you. Won't you please take time to understand how I work? We are the same you and I, in that we both feel hunger, pain, thirst, discomfort, fear, but yet we are also very different and must work to understand one another's language, body signals, wants and needs. Some day I will be a handsome dog, hopefully one you can be proud of and one that you will love as much as I love you.

Love,
Your Puppy

Copyright 2000, by J. Ellis - Southern Shadows Rottweilers.

(photo can be found at http://www.puppypictures.org/main.php/v/pitbull-puppies-pictures-gallery/ )

Combating the Dreaded "Dog" Smell

There's nothing your dog loves more than spending some close-up, cuddle time with you. But if he's got doggie B.O., you probably find yourself pulling away. The sooner you identify and treat the cause of his B.O., the better your human-canine relationship will be.

Bad breath and gum disease
Good oral care is as important for your dog as it is for you. But many pet owners don’t realize the importance of proper oral care, which may explain why up to 80% of dogs over the age of three have periodontal (gum) disease. These conditions, such as gingivitis, are a leading cause of bad breath in dogs—creating an odor that can make your dog’s loving kisses a less-than-welcome experience.

If your dog has bad breath, check for swollen or bleeding gums, yellow-brown deposits on his teeth, broken or loose teeth, or excessive drooling. Tell your vet if you notice any of those symptoms, and make regular oral care appointments. In addition to treating any periodontal disease your dog may currently have, your vet can recommend an oral care maintenance plan between cleanings to help keep his teeth and gums in the best possible condition.

Skin and coat odors
If your dog's B.O. is coming from his body and not his mouth, the underlying cause could be something as simple as poor or inconsistent grooming. When was the last time your dog was professionally groomed—or even bathed?
Your senior dog's circulation and muscle tone just aren't what they used to be. And his older coat and skin can't revive themselves like they once did. You can make up for the decrease in these functions with a regular grooming routine. Set aside 15 minutes a day (or week, depending on his coat) for a grooming session with a brush and flea comb that suits the length and type of your dog's coat.

When was the last time your dog had a bath? Some dogs tend to be a little greasier, or love rolling in mud and other dirty stuff—so they'll need to be bathed more frequently. If you're not sure about how often you should bathe your dog, ask your veterinarian or an experienced groomer. Frequency of bathing depends on your dog's activity level and lifestyle. Most dogs don't need a bath more than once a month. It’s interesting to note that bathing your dog too frequently can also result in increased odor.

When you bathe your older dog, use:
* Warm water in a warm room.
* Mild shampoo that is specially formulated for dogs.
* Thick, absorbent towels instead of a blow dryer.

If B.O. persists
If routine grooming and bathing doesn't freshen the B.O. situation, the cause could be a more serious condition. Skin diseases, for example, can create strong odors you might find offensive. Allergic reactions that affect your dog's skin can cause a musty smell, and bacterial skin infections and yeast infections can produce very noticeable odors.

Abnormal odors can also arise from other parts of your dog’s body. Maladies of the ear canal are capable of creating an odor that may smell like sewage, and anal sac disease can produce odors that are not easily ignored.

If your dog suffers from chronic and unexplained B.O., see your veterinarian. You vet can diagnose the problem and recommend the best possible treatment. And then, you and your pooch can get back to some well-deserved, close-up cuddle time.

(content courtesy of pedigree.com)

Dogs Cared For After Largest Dogfighting Raid in U.S. History

A sign of progress that's FINALLY being made..... Congratulations to the Humane Society!

The Humane Society of the United States is assisting with the daily care of the 407 dogs being held at an emergency shelter in Missouri. These dogs are being held as the primary evidence in the largest one-day series of federal dogfighting raids in U.S. history.

As federal law enforcement authorities are able to release the dogs, the Humane Society of Missouri as well as other key animal welfare organizations will provide expert evaluation of each dog to determine whether the dogs are suitable candidates for placement with rescue groups or permanent adoption.

The HSUS, BAD RAP, Best Friends Animal Society, Animal Farm Foundation and other animal protection organizations recently formed a working group to address the disposition of dogs seized from dogfighting operations.
The HSUS has a policy of recommending that all dogs seized from such operations be professionally evaluated to determine whether they are suitable candidates for adoption.

All groups involved will recommend that dogs deemed suitable for placement will be offered as appropriate for adoption or to approved rescue organizations. The final determination on the outcome for these dogs will be made by the court.

Dogfighting is a brutal endeavor, and it is crucial to emphasize that the misery inflicted on these innocent animals rests with the criminals involved in this enterprise. Every time a dogfighting operation is raided, the long cycle of suffering is broken.

(original content can be found at: http://www.hsus.org/acf/news/ex-fighting_dogs_071509.html )

Introducing A Pet Into The Family

You've finally made the decision. After lengthy discussions
as to the pros and cons of owning a pet, you've decided that
the time is right. Your children are no longer infants;
they have spent plenty of quality time with Aunt Trudy's
Labrador Retriever, "Sunny" and her Siamese cat, "Simone".
They have played with a neighbor's German Shepherd. Uncle
Fred has brought his Border Collie," Billy" over to the
house many times. The kids have also learned about animal
companions and how to care for them in school where they
have turtles, bunnies, gerbils and hamsters in the classroom.
Although the kids love every kind of animal, it seems they
are most enamored of the canine variety and want a dog of
their own.

While the kids have been begging for a dog for a long time
(it seems like forever!) you want to make certain that they
(as well as you and your husband) are really ready to assume
responsibility for the life of another living being that
will reside in your home. Your little boy is 8 - his sister
is 5. You want your kids to learn responsibility. Still,
ultimately you will be the primary caregiver and supervisor
of your children. Are you all ready to share this
responsibility?

Before you adopt your new canine, do your homework!!! Go on
the Internet. Read about and research the various breeds of
dogs that most appeal to you and your family and determine
which seem most compatible with your personalities and
lifestyle. Decide if you want to purchase a dog from a
breeder (make sure he's reputable and has references!) or
if you'd like to adopt an animal that is in need of a loving
home from a shelter or "rescue" group.

There are countless breed specific rescue groups across the
country, which feature purebred representatives of virtually
every kind of dog from Mastiffs to Dachshunds. These rescue
groups are easily located on the Internet and commonly
feature a gallery of dogs available for adoption along with
details about the animal's age, health and personality.

There are many wonderful, healthy and loving animals that
have been abused neglected or abandoned and are in need of
loving homes. Too many pets end up in shelters or in rescue
organizations simply because their owners lacked sufficient
understanding about the breed they selected. Perhaps you
can adopt an animal in need of a home!!! Go together as a
family so you can see how each of you interacts with a
potential adoptee. Most organizations or shelters have
special visiting areas and afford you the opportunity to
"play" or visit with the animal. Jointly decide which animal
is best suited for your family.

Before you take the final step of actually purchasing or
adopting a pet, make sure you have asked yourself the
following questions: -How much time does my family
realistically have to spend with a pet?

-How intelligent/trainable is the breed of interest?

-How well does it get along with other dogs? People?

-How large is it, or if it's a puppy, how large will it get?

-Is the dog good (patient and trustworthy) with children?

-How much exercise and space will it require?

-Is my backyard fenced so that my dog can safely run and
play and not escape?

-Can we afford to take care of a pet? Its food and medical
costs?

Once you've determined that you can care for a pet, take the
pet you've selected to a veterinarian (ask pet-owning friends
for referrals) for a check-up to determine if he's healthy
or prone to any health problems. Your vet should provide
you with a vaccine and regular exam schedule. Ask him to
recommend the food and diet best suited to your dog's needs.
It is a good idea to have your pet tattooed or micro chipped
by your vet as a permanent means of identification should
he get lost or stolen. Also, inquire about flea, tick and
heartworm prevention and spaying/neutering.

Once you learn that the pet is in good health, make your
home dog friendly and safe both inside and out. Check the
fence to make certain your dog won't be able to escape.
Inside, determine where your pet will eat and sleep. Provide
bedding and separate bowls for his food and water.

Have the family decide on the pet's name, then purchase a
comfortable, secure collar, an identification tag with his
name and your phone number, and a leash.
When your family is ready to take your pet home, each of
you should pet and speak soothingly and comfortingly to him.
As easily and gently as possible, put on his new collar,
name tag and leash. Speak softly and calmly as you guide
and help him into your car. Gently pet him.

When you arrive home, orient him to his new surroundings
-walk him around your home and introduce him to your back
yard while he's still on leash. Bring him into the house
and take him to his special "place" - then guide him through
your house slowly and calmly so that he will become familiar
with it. Allow him to experience the "scent" of each room.
Finally, show him his bed and his special place and remove
his leash. Give him fresh water and talk to and pet him
gently. Give him some doggie toys to play with. Hold him in
your lap - cradle him in your arms and welcome him into
your family!

So, now, you've completed all your homework. You've read
and researched. You've asked the appropriate questions and
received answers to them. Your expectations are realistic -
And you have finally found the dog of your family's dreams.
Good job - well done! You and your family are now ready to
enter into one of life's most enjoyable, rich and rewarding
relationships and to experience the unconditional love and
acceptance that only a beloved companion animal can provide!!!

Congratulations!!!

DR. DIANE POMERANCE received her Ph.D. in Communications in
1979 from the University of Michigan, and has written the
highly acclaimed children's nonfiction book on pet loss,
"When Your Pet Dies" which teaches children how to cope
with and recover from the loss of a beloved companion
animal as well as from the other inevitable losses in life.
She is also the author of "Animal Companions: Your Friends,
Teachers & Guides", "Animal Companions: In Our Hearts, Our
Lives & Our World.", Animal Elders: Caring About Our Aging
Animal Companions", "Finding Peace After the Loss of a Loved
Animal Companion", and her most recent book "Pet Parenthood:
Adopting the Right Animal Companion for You." As a writer,
teacher, counselor and animal lover, Dr. Pomerance recognizes
that the loss of a pet can be devastating to adults as well
as to children and counsels those mourning the loss of a
beloved companion animal. For over 25 years, she also worked
in a wide variety of capacities in the entertainment industry
both in New York and Los Angeles, including production work
with such programs as NBC's Sports shows "NFL Live" and
"Grandstand", PBS' "MacNeill/Lehrer Report", and "Bill
Moyer's Journal."

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Diane_Pomerance

Funny Foto: Taking Care of Business

Guess this guy decided to take matters into his own hands.

Puppies!!! Your Pup's Nutritional Needs

A dog has specific nutritional needs at every life stage. This article tells you how to meet those needs.

During the first weeks of life, your puppy will be content with his mother's milk. From the third week on, you can start offering him solid food. If your puppy is not born in your home, and you take him home with you, take some of the food he's eating and is used to, for the first several days.

Otherwise, the combination of an abrupt change in diet and a new environment can easily lead to diarrhea or vomiting. The latest research studies allow you to offer exactly the right diet for each life stage of your dog, so that he'll always be healthy.

Special puppy food is exactly balanced to meet the requirements of a growing dog, and will provide your little dog with everything he needs to become a big dog. The amount of protein and carbohydrates, as well as the combination of minerals and vitamins, is tailored to meet his special requirements.

Food supplements such as calcium aren't necessary, or should only be given in cases of illness or according to your vet's advice. The first months are especially important. Feeding the wrong diet now can be a mistake that can't easily be corrected in later life. If you have any questions about this, contact your breeder or veterinarian.

It's up to your dog to decide whether he wants to eat dry or canned food. You can even combine the two different foods. Initially, you should soak the dry food before feeding, for about 20 minutes in lukewarm water. Make sure there's always fresh water available.

Until your puppy is 12 weeks old, give him up to six meals a day. Leave the dish in his feeding area for about half an hour. If your dog doesn't eat or doesn't eat it all, take away the left-overs and offer him food again at the next feeding time. This way, the puppy will get used to regular feeding times, and you can prevent him from becoming overweight.

Don't worry too much if your puppy leaves out a meal completely or doesn't eat at all for a day. This can easily happen in the beginning. The next day he certainly will make up for everything.

However, if diarrhea, vomiting or a lack of enthusiasm also appear, you should take him to the vet's. These symptoms may be signs of serious diseases, especially in puppies.

Don't try to lure him with treats or offer him his food from your hand to persuade him to eat. Otherwise, he will always expect this special service and will refuse to eat from his feeding dish. Of course, you can give your dog some treats between meals, in a reasonable amount.

Chocolate, sausages, cheese, etc. are not suitable treats, and may even be harmful.

(photo courtesy of http://bulldogbreeds.com/breeders/pics/brenn_bull_terrier.jpg, content provided by Pedigree)

10 Things Only Your Pet Can Do For You

- Diane Pomerance Ph.D.

At a time when more American households have pets than ever before
and are spending more on their pets than at any time in history, we
can only speculate as to why consumers are spending approximately
$43 billion per year on care, accessories, toys, garments, jewelry
(yes, jewelry!), grooming, pet sitters, boarding and daycare as well
as travel, kennels, crates, bowls, food, collars and leashes, and
other pet "necessities", we may wonder why we care about our pets so
dearly and why we are willing to spend so much on them - especially
in any economy that offers us anything but an optimistic outlook.

For so many of us, our pets are beloved family members - loyal,
steadfast and true who provide us with unconditional love and
loyalty - who are nonjudgmental and offer us everything they have
to give - unlimited affection and attention and the desire to share
our joys and sorrow, failures and successes - and above all, to be
there for us regardless of our religion, politics, position, attire,
appearance, eccentricities, educational background and socioeconomic
status.

There are 10 things only a beloved pet can do for us:

1). Love us unconditionally

2). Offer us unconditional loyalty

3). Refrain from judging us

4). Teach us to "live in the moment"

5). Allow us to be genuinely who we are without pretense,
affectation or façade

6). Offer empathy

7). Provide comfort and support

8). Forgive us no matter what

9). Accept us just as we are

10). Teach us gratitude and humility

Our animal companions are truly our friends, teachers and guides.
Some of our most joyous experiences and memorable moments are spent
with these friends. Just by spending time with and observing them,
we can learn so many of life's simplest yet profound lessons. We
simply need to change our perspective and remind ourselves of this
fact.

========

Diane Pomerance received her Ph.D. in Communications in 1979 from
the University of Michigan, and has written the highly acclaimed
children's nonfiction book on pet loss, "When Your Pet Dies" which
teaches children how to cope with and recover from the loss of a
beloved companion animal as well as those inevitable losses in life.
She is also the author of "Animal Companions: Your Friends,
Teachers & Guides", "Animal Companions: In Our Hearts, Our Lives &
Our World.", Animal Elders: Caring About Our Aging Animal Companions",
"Finding Peace After the Loss of a Loved Animal Companion", and her
most recent book "Pet Parenthood: Adopting the Right Animal Companion
for You." Dr. Pomerance counsels those mourning the loss of a beloved
companion animal. As a writer, teacher, counselor and animal lover,
she recognizes that the loss of a pet can be devastating to adults
as well as children. For over 25 years, she has also worked in a
wide variety of capacities in the entertainment industry both in New
York and Los Angeles, including production work with such programs
as NBC's Sports shows "NFL

Article Source: http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Diane_Pomerance_Ph.D

Funny Foto: Direct TV's NEW Spokesperson

This is a classic!

Prison trained puppies help wounded troops?!?!?!

This is a pretty neat story, definitately worth a read -

http://www.cnn.com/2009/LIVING/wayoflife/06/19/o.puppies.behind.bars/index.html

More on Puppy Mills

This is a follow up to a previous post about Puppy Mills. Please check out the website, and take action to stop these types of operations. The dogs, both young and old alike, deserve much better!

http://www.stoppuppymills.org/petland_stores.html

Puppies! Collars and Leashes - What You Should Know...

This article tells you how to get your puppy used to a collar and leash before you go out for your first walk together.

When buying a collar for your puppy, choose one made of nylon or soft leather. Collars that "grow" with your puppy are also suitable. If your puppy is not used to a collar yet, he should start wearing it in the house for a few days. At first he may scratch himself a lot or may even try to get rid of the collar. It will not take long, however, for him to get used to it.

There is no need for your puppy to wear the collar in the house permanently, but he should not leave the house without it.

After about a week, your puppy should have gotten used to the collar and the leash, and you can start out on your first walk together. Of course, everything is new for your puppy. He wants to sniff at everything, he may stop abruptly, and you may have to be careful not to step on him.

On your first walks together, you may have to talk to him to calm him down so he won't rebel against wearing a collar and a leash. At this point in time, it's too early to train your puppy. You may be tempted to let your puppy get away with everything; after all, he's just getting to know his new environment. Remember, though, that you need to be consistent: you, and not your dog, should be the one to decide where you are going.

Of course, your puppy is allowed to sniff around, but when you call him and pull on the leash gently, he should follow you without protest. It will take your puppy about one or two days to get used to the leash. After that, you can teach him the meaning of the command "Heel!"

It will take some weeks or even months, though, until he obeys you perfectly. If you keep at it right from the start, however, this will save you a lot of trouble later on. Even if your dog is not very big, walking him will be a lot more enjoyable if he doesn't keep pulling on the leash.

Obedience classes can be a big help for a dog to learn how to "heel," because they give you and your dog the chance to get proper instructions and to work together with other dog owners.

(Photo can be found at http://www.flickr.com/photos/janneja/361558847/, content provided by Pedigree)

The Doggie Diary

An oldie, but still a goodie:

A Dog's Diary

8:00 AM - Dog food! My favorite thing!

9:30 AM - A car ride! My favorite thing!

9:40 AM - A walk in the park! My favorite thing!

10:30 AM - Got rubbed and petted! My favorite thing!

12:00 PM - Lunch! My favorite thing!

1:00 PM - Played in the yard! My favorite thing!

3:00 PM - Wagged my tail! My favorite thing!

5:00 PM - Milk bones! My favorite thing!

7:00 PM - Got to play ball! My favorite thing!

8:00 PM - Wow! Watched TV with the people! My favorite thing!

11:00 PM - Sleeping on the bed! My favorite thing!

Ticks - How Can I Prevent My Pet From Getting Them?

Does your pet like to play at the park or in your backyard? If so, your pet may be in contact with ticks! All pets that spend time outdoors can easily pick up a tick! It is very easy for a pet to get a tick and they can pick them up from a number of places. Such places include woods, parks, and even your own backyard. Some ticks cannot be seen because they live in dark, moist environments underneath plants and objects. Other ticks live in plain sight and are able to climb structures, such as fences, trees, or tall grass. A tick can easily attach to any pet close to them, so that being said, it is important to know how to prevent and get rid of them if your pet has one.

How Can I Prevent Ticks?
- While ticks are usually found in woody, brushy, and tall grass areas, the best way to prevent ticks is to treat your entire yard for them. Treat your yard with an insecticide, focusing on areas where ticks would most commonly be found. Also make sure to mow your lawn regularly and keep your bushes trimmed.
- You can also prevent ticks by treating your house for them. Ticks can move around a house very easily so it is important to treat the house thoroughly. Make sure you treat all carpets and upholstered furniture, including the sides and backs of the furniture because ticks can climb it. Be sure to treat walls and baseboards. Ticks will hide in baseboards and climb walls. Also make sure to thoroughly treat closets, storage areas, and other places where ticks can hide in your house.
- You can also get a tick preventative for your pet. Tick preventatives kill ticks that attach to your pet. They are a good way to help protect your pet from tick-borne diseases such as Lyme disease. A good product to use for your dog is called Preventic. It provides safe and effective control of ticks for up to three months and prevents new ticks from attaching and feeding within 48 hours after application.

What Do I Do If My Pet Gets A Tick?
- If you have found a tick on your pet, you need to get it out. Pull your pet's hair away from the tick. Then use tweezers to grab the tick. Try to get as close to the head as possible. Do not squeeze the tweezers. Instead pull up and away from your pet, pulling the tick out. Do this slowly so you do not break off the head of the tick. Then flush the tick down the toilet.
- If your pet has brought many ticks into the house and caused the house to be infested, continually treat the house as stated above. Also be sure to use a tick prevention product on your pet and check its skin every day. It may take several weeks to completely rid the house of ticks.

It is very important to be aware of the areas where your pet can pick up a tick and know what to do if your pet does pick up a tick. Ticks can carry many diseases, including Lyme disease, and easily transmit disease to your pet. During the summer season, a quick tick check every day is the best way to protect your pet.

Funny Foto: The Problem with Addiction

Sigh, need I say anything more here?

Thank god my bullies have such odd shaped heads. Unless I am getting an actual canister of peanut butter, I think I am safe. Whew!

Puppies: Puppy's first three months

A puppy's senses begin to awaken in his third week of life. His eyes and auditory canals open so he can communicate with his brothers and sisters for the first time. When a puppy is approximately 21 days old he'll make his first attempts at walking and barking. Within the safety of his family circle, he'll have his first experiences and get to know the complex social behavior of his species.

By his fourth week, the puppy's senses are fully developed and he is able to carefully observe his environment. He will examine and sniff everything. At this stage of life, his ability to learn is as great as it will ever be. He can begin to eat solid food from the fourth week on.

Between 8 and 12 weeks, the puppy is in the socialization stage, and can move to a "human pack".

The best time for the separation from his mother and siblings is at 10 weeks of age. When you bring your puppy homeIf you adopt a puppy at about the 10th week, take him to your veterinarian immediately. Your vet will check your puppy's health and will advise you on the right timing for vaccinations and worming.

Your puppy now needs a lot of loving attention to be able to adjust to his new environment and his separation from his mother and siblings. Praise your puppy often and say his name at the same time.

Also, you should set some boundaries for your puppy by using a stern "no" to discourage him from behaviors you don’t want. During this phase of quick growth it is important that your puppy's special requirements for nutrients are met.

Also important during this phase is your puppy's socialization. Give him a variety of experiences such as riding in a car, bus, or on an elevator, and mixing with a variety of people, other dogs, and other animals. This way he'll be an agreeable, strong-minded companion as an adult dog.

(Photo can be found at http://www.petyourdog.com/images/dog%20breeds/bull_terrier_puppy.jpg, content is courtesy of Pedigree)

Facts about Canine Lyme Disease

The first diagnosis of Lyme Disease was made in a resident of Lyme, Connecticut in 1975. Over the decades, the seriousness of this debilitating tick-borne disease has made many people weary of wandering outdoors during seasons when ticks are active. If you live in the Northeast or upper Midwest states, there’s a good chance you know someone who has had a Lyme Disease diagnosis. A decade after being diagnosed in people, Lyme Disease was first recognized as a condition that also affects dogs.

What exactly is Lyme Disease?
Lyme Disease is an infectious disease that is caused by the bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi, which is found in several varieties of ticks, but is mostly associated with the common deer tick. The disease is transmitted when a tick carrying the bacteria bites a dog—or human—and feasts on the host’s blood. It should be noted that not all deer ticks carry the disease, and not all bites from infected deer ticks successfully transmit the disease. For the bacteria to be passed into a dog, the tick must have been attached to the dog for about 48 hours.

So if a tick is removed from a dog shortly after he is bitten, there’s a good chance the dog will not contract the disease. However, deer ticks are extremely tiny and are difficult to see, especially when covered by a dog’s fur. Your vet is trained to spot and remove ticks. If you happen to notice a tick on your dog and want to attempt to remove it, use small tweezers and carefully grasp the tick where it is making contact with the dog’s skin. Then gently lift the tick away. If you suspect that it’s a deer tick, take your dog—and the tick—to the vet for examination.

What are the symptoms?
Lyme Disease isn’t easy to diagnose, especially in senior dogs, because the initial symptoms can be mistaken for other conditions, such as arthritis. Lyme Disease symptoms include limping—which can shift from one leg to another—swelling of lymph nodes, lethargy, loss of appetite, and fever. Initially, the affected dog may simply experience mild joint and muscle discomfort in his limb(s). However, the pain can become severe over time, and multiple joints can be involved Even with treatment, Lyme Disease can cause permanent joint damage. There have also been reports of severe progressive kidney disease linked to Lyme Disease.

Is there treatment for Lyme Disease?
Lyme Disease is generally treated with antibiotics. In many cases, affected dogs respond well to those meds. However, if treatment is halted too soon, the dog may get a relapse. Even in dogs that show full recovery, the bacteria that causes Lyme Disease may still be present in their bodies, even though the dog no longer displays the symptoms of the disease. Senior dogs with severe cases of arthritis—in addition to Lyme Disease—and those dogs that are severely affected may also be treated with pain relievers.

How can Lyme Disease be prevented?
Since Lyme Disease is serious and can be debilitating, dog owners want to take measures to prevent their pets from contracting the disease. Here are a few things you can do to help minimize your dog’s chance of getting Lyme Disease.

Avoid areas that are likely to be tick infested. During the seasons when ticks are active, try to avoid taking your dog into heavily wooded areas or other places where large deer populations live.

Spray your immediate home/lawn area with an appropriate insecticide. If you decide to use an anti-tick spray, make sure it’s safe for dogs.

Vaccinate your dog.
If you live in a high-risk region, ask your vet about the latest generation of Lyme Disease vaccinations. He may recommend one that he deems effective.

Use a topical anti-tick insecticide. There are currently several brands of topical insecticides on the market. They generally help in two ways:(1) By repelling ticks, and (2) By killing ticks that manage to attach themselves to dogs. Ask your vet about the brands he recommends. Please note that most flea and tick collars are not effective against the ticks that cause Lyme Disease. Only collars with amitraz have been shown to kill the ticks that spread this disease.

If you live in—or your dog has visited—a Lyme Disease hot spot and suspect that he is suffering from this condition, do not hesitate to take him to the veterinarian for an examination.

(content courtesy if pedigree.com)

Such a cool video....

You've gotta check this out, this is amazing....

http://onemansblog.com/2007/08/16/the-coolest-dog-on-the-planet/

I would love to know how long it took her to train him how to do this!

Oh boy..........

So, I am super excited, as one of my friends just got a puppy. Thank goodness he opted for a dog, as opposed to a cat! (no offense to you cat lovers out there)

Having raised a few dogs, I try to think that I am not near as clueless as I once was. After all, when I got my first dog, I thought that crate training was cruel - I can assure you with absolute certainty that those 4 months were the longest 4 months of my life. The damage done to my carpet, furniture, electrical cords, clothes, shoes - the list goes on and on - was just appalling. At one point, I honestly thought that perhaps this dog was possessed by the devil - and sent to me to make my life a living hell. Ha! Granted I was only 19 at the time, and didn't have the first clue about training a puppy, but it all worked out in the and - and that puppy grew up to the best dog anyone could ask for.

Anyhow - getting back to the point of this post - so, my friend has a new puppy, and I of course just HAD to go over and see it. Puppy, who is approximately 3 months old (and nameless at this point), went potty a TON when I was over there... and my friend seemed to be quite confused. I offered some suggestions on training techniques, things to expect, etc. We shall see how long it takes before he starts adopting some of these techniques. I know that when I got my first dog, I thought I knew it all, and un-wisely passed on information others tried to share with me.

Regardless, I did some research online on actually training a puppy, and stumbled across this website:
http://www.inch.com/~dogs/housebreaking.html
It's a pretty good resource, so I wanted to make sure to share....

Happy training!

Finding a Vet: The Checklist

It could be that you've just adopted an adult dog and need to find a veterinarian. Or perhaps you've moved to a new city, town or neighborhood. Or maybe you're simply not satisfied with your current vet. Whatever the case may be, here's a checklist of what you should do in order to find a new veterinarian.

Step One: Determine your needs
Before you actually start looking for a veterinarian, take some time to think about the needs of your dog as well as your own needs. For instance, do you have a schedule that's fairly flexible that would allow you to go to an appointment in the middle of the day? Or would it be more convenient for you to have a vet that makes housecalls? Are you prepared to drive across town to the best vet or would you prefer someone with an office close by? These are just some of the things you should think about before you begin your search.

Step Two: Research
The phone book might seem a bit obvious, but it is a very good resource of information about your community. Just remember that fancy phone book ads don't guarantee a positive working relationship with your vet!

Here are some other helpful resources:
Contact your local Humane Society or animal shelter and ask if they can provide you with a list of veterinarians in your area.
Talk to other dog owners in your neighborhood about their veterinarian. Word of mouth is often the most reliable source since you get the information from an end user's perspective. They'll be the ones to tell you if a vet's people skills are as good as their animal skills.

Step Three: Start asking questions
What are the office hours?
Is the vet available on Saturdays or open after 5 p.m. at least one day a week?
How easy is it to get an appointment?
Do you need to book far in advance?
How many veterinarians are in the practice?
If there are more than one, can you request a specific vet?
Does the vet (or vets) have any areas of specialty? For example, geriatrics or behavior?
What services are provided? For example, are there after-hour emergency services?
Does the vet make housecalls? Do they offer boarding services?
Are services like x-rays, bloodwork or other diagnostics done on-site or is a specialist required?
What associations is the vet affiliated with? For example, a membership with the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) signifies that the veterinarian has passed certain standards in the areas of facility, equipment, and quality care.
What forms of payment are accepted?
Is it easy to find parking? Is there a cost for it?

Step Four: Pay a visit
Once you've narrowed your search down, visit the veterinarian office in person. Take a good look around and make note of the following:
Is the facility clean and comfortable?
Do they offer additional products like specialty dog food, grooming items, toys, etc.? (These may not be necessities, but it's good to know they're available.)
Is the staff friendly and helpful?
Do they seem knowledgeable?
Do you feel comfortable talking to them?

You may think this seems like a lot to go through to find a veterinarian, but you're really doing much more than looking for a medical expert. You're looking for someone who will care for the needs of your dog so you can look forward to a longer life together.

(photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/fluffie-bunnie/201074339/, content courtesy of pedigree.com)

Make a difference in the life of an animal in YOUR community

I am a huge proponent of giving back to the community. Especially if it has to do with animals, and bettering their lives.

This is a really neat website you can check out to locate local volunteer organizations. There are a lot of really good causes listed there.

http://www.volunteermatch.org/search/index.jsp?l=22102&k=dog

Even if its 2 hours once a month, it DOES matter.

Funny Foto: Quack Quack, Waddle Waddle

Wonder how long those chips lasted?

My guess is that they didn't stand a chance!

PUPPIES!!!! Before bringing your puppy home…

This is a direct follow up to my post last week on finding the perfect pup.....

When your puppy comes home you want to be able to relax, knowing that everything is ready for him. You will also want to make your pup’s transition from the breeder’s home to yours as comfortable as possible for him. That means having all the supplies your pup will need on hand and puppy proofing your home.

What supplies will your pup need?

1. Leash and collar with tag. There are many to choose from. A soft collar with a buckle is a good idea, along with a nylon leash that is easily cleaned. You should have identification for your pup right away. Temporary collars are available from pet supply stores if you are waiting for permanent tags to be ready.

2. Crate and bed. Most pups are happy sleeping in their crates because it provides a comfortable den for them. The crate will also come in handy as you start your pup’s training. The crate should be placed in an area where the pup is not isolated from the rest of his new family. A couple of old towels work well as your pup’s bed or you can buy a bed for him, as long as you keep in mind it will be chewed.

3. Toys. It’s easy to go overboard when buying toys for a new puppy, however it’s not necessary. In fact too many toys may confuse the pup, causing him to think that everything – including the slippers you left out – are his toys. It’s often a better idea to buy a few toys that will keep your new pup occupied and stimulated, and teach him which toys are his.

4. Grooming supplies. A comb, brush, shampoo formulated especially for puppies and nail trimmers are enough to get you started. Your vet or breeder can help you decide what is best for your pup.

5. Food and water bowls. Bowls that are bottom heavy and as wide on the bottom as they are on top don’t spill as easily as others. Unbreakable bowls are best. Plastic bowls aren’t a good idea because they may be chewed.

6. Food. Your pup will need good quality food designed specifically for the growing pup. If your pup has been eating a different puppy food you should also have a supply of that. It can upset your pup’s stomach if his food is changed suddenly, so this should be done slowly over the course of a few weeks.

Puppy proofing

Although your puppy’s access in your home should be limited to a few rooms at first, it is still important to be safe rather than sorry, and that means puppy proofing your whole home.

1. Breakables. Move breakable objects safely out of your pup’s reach. Puppies are curious, and their tails can do a lot of damage to vases or other breakables.

2. Cords. Telephone cords, electrical cords, curtain cords – all of these should be tucked away so that your new pup isn’t tempted to chew on them or tug at them.

3. Books and magazines. Move these from side tables and coffee tables to places higher up, out of the reach of puppy teeth.

4. Cleaning products. Go through your home and make sure that all cleaning products, many of which are hazardous to your pup, are safely in cupboards with latching doors.

5. Medicine and grooming supplies. Prescriptions, hair spray, nail polish remover and many other medicinal products and grooming supplies pose dangers to your pup. Storing them out of your pup’s reach is best.

6. Houseplants and flowers. Many of these, for example, poinsettia, are toxic to pups and should be moved to an area where your puppy can’t get at them.

7. Car maintenance products. All of these, especially antifreeze, which is a real danger to curious pups, should be out of reach.

8. Gardening products. Insecticides, sprays and anything else that could pose a danger should be stored safely behind a latched door.

A good way to approach puppy proofing your home is to think about what you would move if you were baby proofing your home, and do the same. Not only does this protect your puppy, but it protects your valuables, too.

Puppy proofing your home prior to your pup arriving means that when he gets there you can relax and spend time with him – a perfect way to start your new life together!

This information is courtesy of Pedigree. Original photo listed above can be found at http://www.petyourdog.com/images/dog%20breeds/bull_terrier_puppy2.jpg )

Getting the Fat on Fatty Acids

By Shawn Messonnier DVM

A resource from Pet-Togethers

Fatty acids are among the most commonly used nutritional supplements used in treating dogs and cats. Fortunately, they have been used successfully long enough that most conventional veterinarians include their usage in the treatment of at least some diseases. This article will discuss our current knowledge of fatty acids and present some new ideas for their usage in treating our pets.

Medicinal fatty acids are divided into omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. In general, omega-6 fatty acids tend to promote inflammation, whereas omega-3 fatty acids act to reduce inflammation. As such, omega-3 fatty acids are used in diseases in which anti-inflammatory activity is needed. The fatty acids can substitute for medications such as corticosteroids in the treatment of inflammation.

The most commonly used supplements that provide fatty acids are fish oil and flax seed oil. While flax seed oil contains more omega-3’s than fish oil, the omega-3’s found in flax seed oil are in an inactive form. The omega-3’s found in fish oil are in an active form. In research studies, fish oil has shown positive benefits in helping people and pets with disease, whereas flax seed oil has not been as beneficial. For this reason, fish oil is generally recommended as the omega-3 fatty acid supplement of choice.

The active omega-3’s, (eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA)) are derived from fish oils of coldwater fish (salmon, trout, or most commonly menhaden fish.) Also called linseed oil, flaxseed oil is derived from the seeds of the flax plant and has been proposed as a less smelly alternative to fish oil. Flaxseed oil contains alpha-linolenic acid (ALA,) an omega-3 fatty acid that is ultimately converted to EPA and DHA. In fact, flax seed oil contains higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids (ALA) than fish oil. It also contains omega-6 fatty acids.

Similar to the situation with fish oil, pets with inflammatory diseases may respond to supplementation with flax seed oil. However, many species of pets (probably including dogs and cats) and some people cannot efficiently convert ALA to the more active non-inflammatory omega-3 fatty acids (EPA and DHA.) In one study in people, flax seed oil was ineffective in reducing symptoms or raising levels of EPA and DHA. In pets with kidney disease, flax seed oil was not as effective as fish oil. While flaxseed oil has been suggested as a substitute for fish oil, there is no evidence that it is effective when used for the same therapeutic purposes as fish oil. Unlike the case for fish oil, there is little evidence that flax seed oil is effective for any specific therapeutic purpose with the following exceptions. Flax seed oil can improve the coat and skin of pets. Also, the lignans contained in flax seed oil may have anti-cancer benefits.

Fish oil supplementation may be helpful for pets with inflammatory diseases including allergies, arthritis, kidney disease, heart disease, and cancers. People with diabetes may have fatty acid derangement and require supplementation; this may also be true in pets. Fish oil has demonstrated benefits in people and pets with allergies, kidney disease, and heart disease. It has also shown benefits as an anti-depressant in people with mild depression.

Fish oil appears to have benefits in pets with arthritis as well. Pets with any type of inflammatory disease may benefit from fish oil supplementation. In general, more severe disease requires doses higher than those commonly recommended and often additional supplements are necessary as fish oil is not often useful as the only supplement.
Fish oil is very effective in some pets with allergic skin disease. It is easy to administer (via gel caps or liquid) and can reduce the amount of corticosteroid or antihistamine needed to control itching. The response is variable in other diseases (such as kidney disease) but fish oil appears effective in research studies. In pets with some types of cancer, fish oil has slowed down the growth and spread of the cancer. While more studies are needed on other types of cancer, the general recommendation is to add fish oil to the diets of all pets with cancer.

In my opinion, any pet may benefit from fatty acid supplementation. While we don’t always have hard “proof” that they work in every case, the science is there to show how they work and suggest their usage any time inflammation may be a problem. In most pets in my practice, fatty acid supplementation forms the “baseline” of supplements that I use, adding other supplements as dictated by clinical response or the nature of the disease.

While there is concern about the contamination of fish meat with environmental contaminants such as mercury, this concern does not apply to fish oil. Supplementation with fish oil can result in decreased levels of vitamin E; therefore, fish oil supplements have extra vitamin E added to them.

As is true with many supplements, your veterinarian may have favorite supplements that he will sell you or recommend to you. Pet owners are cautioned against buying supplements without knowledge of the manufacturer, as supplements are not highly regulated and some supplements may not contain the labeled amount of fish oil.

SafetyFish oil supplementation is very safe. The most common side effect seen in people and pets is a fish odor to the breath or the skin. Because fish oil has a mild “blood-thinning” effect, it should not be combined with powerful blood-thinning medications, such as Coumadin (warfarin) or heparin, except on a veterinarian's advice. Fish oil does not seem to cause bleeding problems when it is taken by itself at commonly recommended dosages. In people, a high dose of fish oil (4 grams or more each day) when combined with ginkgo biloba has caused serious bleeding problems. Fish oil does not appear to raise blood sugar levels in people or pets with diabetes despite earlier concerns about this. Flax oil does not appear to cause “blood thinning.” In my practice, I’ve never seen any side effects and I use a lot of fatty acids. Very rarely, I have had a few of my canine patients smell fishy. This side effect goes away as the dosage is lowered. While many owners worry about giving extra “fat” to their pets, especially in cases where the pet is overweight, take comfort. Fatty acid supplements contain only a handful of calories and supplementation is unlikely to hurt any pet on a diet.

TipIn studies done in people and pets, dosages much higher than label doses are needed to achieve results. As a rule, I try to start with 2-4 times the label dose when treating diseases and adjust the dose depending upon the pet’s response. I use the label dose when recommending fatty acids as a coat or skin supplement.

Conclusion
Fatty acid therapy is becoming a part of our mainstream therapy for many pet disorders. In general, fish oil is preferred to flax oil as it contains the more active omega-3’s. To get the best results, dosages higher than those on the label are needed and in most cases, fish oil should be combined with other supplements for maximum effectiveness.

About Pet-TogethersPet-Togethers is a companion care company devoted to improving the lives of pets and those who care for them. Their veterinarian-recommended PetCentRx Vim & Vigor wellness wellness formula is a highly nutritious supplement that’s giving new life to dogs and cats around the globe. Visit www.PetCentRx.co

Progress! New Law Strikes in Puppy Mill Capital

Per the Humane Society:

Our Emergency Services unit and our Puppy Mills campaign raid squalid, overcrowded, and inhumane puppy mills all over the nation and deliver these animals into a new world filled with kindness and compassion. Yesterday, our team worked with the Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture and its Bureau of Dog Law Enforcement in shutting down a major operation in Lehigh County and rescuing more than 200 dogs. The site was the misnamed “Almost Heaven Kennel,” but as the seizure revealed, it was anything but that for the dogs suffering on this property.

In a swift operation that started around noon yesterday, The HSUS and state personnel

removed the dogs from the property and transported them to an emergency holding facility in Harrisburg where the animals are being examined and cared for. The state gave The HSUS custody of the animals, and we’ll work with humane organizations and rescue groups to adopt the dogs to suitable homes when the animals are in proper condition.

We commend state officials for deciding to shut down this delinquent dog breeder and for inviting The HSUS to assist with the seizure and animal care operations. Almost Heaven—one of Pennsylvania’s most notorious puppy mills with a list of

previous offenses—had capitalized on the popularity of “doodle” breeds, selling labradoodles, goldendoodles and "mini" goldendoodles for $1,000 or more.

The raid probably would not have occurred but for the

dog protection legislation The HSUS and other groups worked so hard to pass in the state legislature last year.When The HSUS works to pass legislation, we also work to enforce the law. We hope to put this new Pennsylvania dog law to use whenever high-volume breeders mistreat the animals and handle them like little more than a cash crop. We’ll continue to work with our friends at Main Line Animal Rescue, the Pennsylvania SPCA, and other groups to tackle cruelty in a state that has unfortunately come to be known as the Puppy Mill Capital of the East.

(The original post of this article can be found at: http://hsus.typepad.com/wayne/2009/06/pa-puppy-mill.html )

Happy 4th of July

Wishing you and your family a safe and happy 4th of July!

PLEASE make sure that you have properly prepared your pet for the holiday celebration. You can find tips here: http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/summer_care_tips_for_you_and_your_pets/keep_your_pet_safe_on_july_4th.html

(photo courtesy of http://www.funnydog.net/images/patriotic-dog.jpg )

How to Pick Your Next Puppy

How do you choose a puppy?

It’s not easy but a few simple puppy temperament checks can help.

Observing the puppies
Observing the puppies will give you an idea of the pup’s personality. At this point don’t interact with the pups but take note of how they play together. The bold puppy. Which puppy is the first to reach the food or the first to grab a toy? When the puppies are play-fighting is there one that just doesn’t give up? This pup usually has a bold temperament. The fearful puppy. Is there one pup who sits back, observing his littermates play? It may be that this pup has a calm temperament or his behavior could indicate that he is a fearful pup, and is afraid of joining in.

The above observations are a start but what else can you do to help you understand a pup’s temperament?
Ask the breeder if you can interact with the puppies. There should be no objections to this, unless the puppies are still too young.

Once you’re interacting with the puppies you can try the following two tests with each one, the results of which can help you get to know the puppies better as individuals.

How sociable is the puppy?
Coax the puppy to you by bending down and cheerfully calling to him, clapping your hands gently to encourage him. What does he do?
He comes readily with his tail up, jumping up at you and maybe nipping at your hands.
He comes readily with his tail up, possibly licking at your hands.
He comes readily with his tail down.
He comes slowly with his tail down.
He ignores you, runs away or hides.

How willing is the pup to follow you?
Set the puppy on the ground and walk away from him without saying anything. What does he do?
He follows readily, getting underfoot and climbing on your feet and possibly nipping at them.
He runs to you with his tail up and possibly licks at your feet.
He follows readily with his tail up.
He comes to you slowly with his tail down.
He ignores you or cautiously watches you.

What does this information tell you?
Scores of 1 or 2: If the puppy scored ones or twos this is an indication that he is a bold puppy. Puppies that act bolder than their littermates are usually dominant puppies, and these pups may have trouble accepting anyone else as the leader of their pack. That makes them more difficult to train in the everyday commands that help keep them safe. These pups are also more likely to act aggressively if their dominance is challenged. If you live alone, work long hours or have a laid back lifestyle this pup may not be your best match. Bold puppies can grow up to be wonderful law enforcement or search and rescue dogs, however they may not make the best companion pups.

Scores of 4 or 5: A puppy that scored fours or fives shows signs of fear and submissiveness. Training a fearful pup in the basic commands may be more difficult, and socializing this pup may be more of a challenge.

Scores of 3: Many experts agree that it is safest to pick a pup who doesn’t greatly stand out from the rest as being overly bold or fearful; a “middle” pup. This pup’s behavior indicates that, given the care and training every pup needs, he will accept you as his pack leader and be easily adaptable to new experiences– and that helps to make a puppy a wonderful companion. How accurate are the results?

Could you figure out a person’s personality on the basis of the above two checks? No, and this is true of puppies as well. However, along with your earlier observations of the pups, their responses can still provide an indication as to their temperament. To put the puppy temperament checks in perspective remember that the puppy may be tired that day, his mother or littermates may distract him or his actions may be misinterpreted. Because of this it’s best to use the checks as just one of your decision-making tools when deciding which puppy to welcome into your home.

Listen to your heart
Picking a puppy is not easy, especially when there are so many healthy, adorable pups to choose from. No matter what your method when choosing your pup keep in mind that although a pup should not be chosen purely based on emotion, he shouldn’t be chosen without listening to your heart either!

(the original photo listed here can be found at: http://www.pups4sale.com.au/bull_terrier_08a.jpg
the content listed is courtesy of Pedigree)

Yikes! Leaving your dog - gasp - alone in your home!

Did you know that you need to train your dog to be alone in the house?

Many dog owners don't know what age you can reasonably expect toleave your dog alone in the house, without having any problems. The answer to this question really depends on you and your dog.

The typical age when most people can start leaving their dogs alone in thehouse at around 1.5 years of age.

Keep in mind that even at 6 months of age, even though your dog may look like a full grown dog at this age--he's not. And just like a baby would need to be put in a play pen or a crib when unsupervised-- so does your dog.

(Of course, your dog needs to be let out of the crate for regularpotty breaks, exercise and play. For some dog owners, confining the dog in a doggie-safe kennel run outside may work better).

But back to the crate: The crate also has an added benefit ofgiving your dog a "safe zone." Everybody (even humans) needs a safe zone. That's why we live in houses and apartments with locks on our doors. Because we need a place where we can be safe. The crate does this for the domesticated dog, by playing on your dog's ingrained "den instinct."

Once your dog is older and has demonstrated to you that he's oldenough to handle the responsibility of being alone in the house (by leaving him for short periods of time, that gradually get longer and longer-- and by correcting unwanted behavior when he attempts it while you are home) you'll soon have a pet that can be left in the house, unsupervised without causing any problems.